I Totally Thrashed Some Waves Today

I went to the beach today. Great decision.

I walked a long ways to scope out all the different beach areas. I found great seafood resturaunts right on the water, lots of mini soccer fields, surfing, beach food, some thongs, and a lot of relaxing Limoneon´s.

The beach itself is actually pretty rough, it is more like a bunch of pebbles rather than sand. But no one, including me, seems to care. Some people bring mats to lay on for comfort. I did not bring as much as a towel, becuase I heard that pretty much anything you bring will be stolen even if you just leave it for a quick swim. Nevertheless, I was comfortable.

I got a chicken sandwich for a dollar on the beach. Feeling full, strong, and rich, I decide to takle the all ellusive sport of surfing. I have attempted to learn the sport once before...in the same ocean- just several thousand miles north of here...at Venice Beach in LA. The Pacific had the best of me that first day of lessons. But today.....today....I triumphed! I was riding! It was great! I had a much smaller board this time, and I think that made it easier (ironically since they say the big boards are easier). I didn´t feel rushed at all, (partly because I only paid about 5 bucks for the board) and once I got out there I just chilled, and waited for the right wave. It was great, I felt like I was part of the club- the locals were even giving me tips and cheering me on along the way. Most of them anyway...one guy was a little pissed at me because he thought I stole his wave, since I was farther out than him...I caught it first...what can I say I don`t know the rules.?.? But I love that I met both some friends and foes in the water. I totally feel like a legitimate surfer now! I will admit that the movie Point Break entered my mid at least a few times today.

Even with all the success there were of course some failures as well. And I hope that all the salt water that accidently entered my body won´t kill me, especially since there are public warnings about the polution in the water....what can I say....I could`t resist :)