This place confuses me. Cuzco is home to a weird combination of Hippies, Hipsters, Geriatrics, and Peruvians.
When I was in Ayacucho the locals there warned me, ´There are more gringos there than Peruvians.´ They were right! I have not been anywhere thus far with sooooo many tourists! The town is shapped accordingly. Complete with a McDonalds right on the town square.
First for the rich geriatric group.
There are a myriad of fine dinning establishments, of the likes are hard to find anywhere else in Peru. Not that the food there is necisarily better, but they certainly have the high prices, white table cloths, and suited up wait staff that we would expect at a resturaunt with extroidinary food. I´m not positively sure, but I have fair reason to believe that the food in Lima is better, a little cheaper, and bit less formal. Also present are a nice collection of hotels that look way too nice for the rest of the town. Prices at the shops near these hotels are actually more expensive!
Second for the hippies.
The central plaza, the plaza de armas (as all towns in Peru have in the center of town) is nearly overtaken by hippies, from all over the world. I never saw the haight-ashburry street in San Fransisco during the 60´s...but I imagine it is a similar scene....maybe with out all the violence and anger towards the man. This is all purely speculation as I have clearly not lived through the 60´s, and am admitedly chosen to be on the outside of the hippie scene here. All I do know is there are a lot of them here crowding the town square, they sit around all day long in circles of about 10, playing bad music from whatever sort of strange instruments they have dreamed up, sitting in the grass, swaying back and forth, and smoking a lot of pot!
Lastly the hipsters.
For the first time in my trip- I wish I had my tight black jeans, my chuck taylor converse, and my black leather jacket (ok its actually pleather, but that just makes it cooler, right??). Man, I would fit in. At least with one of the groups! The hipsters have their cheap hostels, dark obscure lounges...and all night discotechs. Which cater to the unobliged, drugged up partier. One hostel here, called Loki, reminds me exactly of senior trip to Cancún. First of all, its huge. Holds about 100 people, and is totally booked up! And its the off season down here. It comes with the all important bar, and throws parties almost every night...usually with a theme. Hell, the people who stay there even have electric green wrist bands! This crowd is so rowdy, that in the three days I have been here, one friend woke up to a couple having sex in the bunk above him, and another woke up to someone else throwing up on his bag! I decided to stay elsewhere.
There are undoubtedly other groups here in town, but there are much less well represeted. The good news is all can appreciate the towns good saftey, fun local people, and impressive history. Cuzco was the capital city of the all influential Inca civilization. And nearby is one of the seven wonders of the modern world....Machu-Pichu.
I leave tomorrow for what should be a memorable trek culminating with the arrival of ¨The Lost City of the Inca´s¨.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Decision Made
Well, it has been on my mind since the day I left Ayacucho- the eternally burning question of, should I go back?
I signed up for a leadership position, in charge of two projects. The first, was the last two weeks of Dec., then a 2 week break, and then the last 2 week project. I was the only volunteer for the first project, and most of my real volunteer position expierence came when I worked with the project before me in the begging of Dec. to see how everything is run. There were 12 volunteers then, for my project (which was during the holidays) I was the only one. It was a tough month for me, as you have likely read in my previous blogs.
Well, I don´t want to go back, I didn´t really enjoy the work in Ayacucho, but I think some others maybe did. Maybe volunteer work is simply not for me, or maybe I just signed up for the wrong type....working with kids. The situation was just so sad, and I knew that the only real way to make a significant difference in these kids lives was to be their parent. I also knew that I didn´t want that job....at least not now- at this point in my life. It really dragged into me, and the more I thought about it, the more I remember that this trip is really supposed to be about me...and be fun! I also thought that me going back, and just muscling through it....which is what I would have done....might have ruined the exíerence for the other volunteers, and probably been worse for the kids. Add this to the fact that I would have been unhappy, and the decision was made.
I´m heading to Cuzco.
I know, I´m a horible person. I feel terible leaving the project, but I think its the right decision. After all, I did spend a month there....thats twice what the normal volunteer spends. And even if I didn´t fulfill my formal commitment, I do feel privledged and proud for having gone and learned about the situation of these children and the city of Ayacucho and worked hard while I was there.
I signed up for a leadership position, in charge of two projects. The first, was the last two weeks of Dec., then a 2 week break, and then the last 2 week project. I was the only volunteer for the first project, and most of my real volunteer position expierence came when I worked with the project before me in the begging of Dec. to see how everything is run. There were 12 volunteers then, for my project (which was during the holidays) I was the only one. It was a tough month for me, as you have likely read in my previous blogs.
Well, I don´t want to go back, I didn´t really enjoy the work in Ayacucho, but I think some others maybe did. Maybe volunteer work is simply not for me, or maybe I just signed up for the wrong type....working with kids. The situation was just so sad, and I knew that the only real way to make a significant difference in these kids lives was to be their parent. I also knew that I didn´t want that job....at least not now- at this point in my life. It really dragged into me, and the more I thought about it, the more I remember that this trip is really supposed to be about me...and be fun! I also thought that me going back, and just muscling through it....which is what I would have done....might have ruined the exíerence for the other volunteers, and probably been worse for the kids. Add this to the fact that I would have been unhappy, and the decision was made.
I´m heading to Cuzco.
I know, I´m a horible person. I feel terible leaving the project, but I think its the right decision. After all, I did spend a month there....thats twice what the normal volunteer spends. And even if I didn´t fulfill my formal commitment, I do feel privledged and proud for having gone and learned about the situation of these children and the city of Ayacucho and worked hard while I was there.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
A Victim of my First Crime...I Called It Though
I mentioned that I thought Iquitos was a little dangerous, that I felt like there were more shady people here than anywhere I have been. And sure enough, I fell victim to my first scam since I have been in Peru. I always try to watch myself, and be careful, but damn- this guy was good.
I was changing money, and my first tip off should have been that the guy didn´t try to haggle the exchange rate with me, he just gave me the best rate straight up. Happily, I accepted, and handed over 40 dollars. At his rate, I was to recieve 126 soles back. He gave me 116, as I counted and checked all the bills for counterfit, I noticed that I was 10 short. I called him on it, and reluctantly, he took the money back to count it himself. Then, smiling and appoligizing, he took out another bill, and- I thought- added it to the pile. I again, checked the accuracy of the bills, but having seen him add the other bill, I did not count the money. Somehow, the guy actually took one less out of the pile! Now I´m out 20 soles. Damn it! I didn´t relize until later that night.
When I told the locals, they were a bit upset and told me to go back and yell at the guy! Fearing a far worse fate, I chose to let the incident go, and chalk it up to a learning expierence. I´m smarter now, and know what to look for, so at least it was only 20 soles and not much more. A good one to learn on.
I was changing money, and my first tip off should have been that the guy didn´t try to haggle the exchange rate with me, he just gave me the best rate straight up. Happily, I accepted, and handed over 40 dollars. At his rate, I was to recieve 126 soles back. He gave me 116, as I counted and checked all the bills for counterfit, I noticed that I was 10 short. I called him on it, and reluctantly, he took the money back to count it himself. Then, smiling and appoligizing, he took out another bill, and- I thought- added it to the pile. I again, checked the accuracy of the bills, but having seen him add the other bill, I did not count the money. Somehow, the guy actually took one less out of the pile! Now I´m out 20 soles. Damn it! I didn´t relize until later that night.
When I told the locals, they were a bit upset and told me to go back and yell at the guy! Fearing a far worse fate, I chose to let the incident go, and chalk it up to a learning expierence. I´m smarter now, and know what to look for, so at least it was only 20 soles and not much more. A good one to learn on.
Adventure Golf
I went golfing in the amazon rain forest! I know, I know, it seems wrong....but who else can say they went golfing in the amazon rain forest?? Not many people have played here at all, the course just opened last May, and the owner told me that I am one of the first Americans ( I dont believe him though). My curiousity made me go, and I was not disapointed. It was different golf...they call it adventure golf. Don´t look to hard for your lost ball, becuase you might not want to find it! Just last week, a Welsch guy, reached into the water hazard for his ball, and had the tip of his little finger bitten off by a piranah! Serious! It was in the paper! I let my water hazard balls go!
I actually played pretty well, and pared one hole of the nine....which is decent for this course! Everything is rougher here, so the farway is like the rough, and the rough is, well, jungle. But, mainly I played just so that everyone who was at work today knows that I was in the amazon jungle, playing golf! :) :) :) :)
How much do you hate me right now??
I actually played pretty well, and pared one hole of the nine....which is decent for this course! Everything is rougher here, so the farway is like the rough, and the rough is, well, jungle. But, mainly I played just so that everyone who was at work today knows that I was in the amazon jungle, playing golf! :) :) :) :)
How much do you hate me right now??
The Amazon
Yup, the real deal. I went to the jungle, and it was awsome! In 3 days and 2 nights, we saw alot of the jungle! We really lucked out and got a great guide...the kind of guy that you would want to be with if you got stuck in the middle of the rain forest. He spent time with the Peruvian military, stationed on the boarder of Ecuador and Peru, in the jungle, and he grew up only a few hours from the area we were in....he knew his stuff.
We choose for the more hard core expierence (of course), so we didn´t exactly stay in some ritzy eco lodge with a swimming pool and such. It was non-stop action from the moment we left Iquitos....at 6 in the morning the first day. It was like expierencing the evolution of transportation systems from the last 200 years in half a day. First, a 2 hour taxi ride on decent roads, then 2 hour water taxi that was basically a nice canoe with a motor on the back, then we switch to paddle power for about half an hour, and finally a 15 minute hike to base camp. Welcome, you have officially transported yourself back in time 200 years. The villages we pass on the way are made entirely of the local timber, complete with palm leaved roofs- it really looks like not much has changed here for a while, except peoples clothing....which is surprisingly normal. Also stricking on the journey was the sheer size and might of the amazon river. It is huge!! Im talking 5 times as wide as the mississippi, 3 times as deep, and twice as muddy! And this is at the very begining of the river!
As soon as we reach the first nights destination, we put our stuff down and trade in our comfy sandels for jungle boots. Which are thick rubber, knee high boots. They look really cool when you tuck in your long pants into them too...and yes its required, you know- so the spiders don´t crawl up your pants! It´s dusk now, and our first venture out was more about the plants than the animals. We didn´t need to go far before our guide was telling us, this tree cures this, this plants helps that, and these leaves can build you this. It is truley full of everything you need to survive...and live quite comfortably, except of course that you are in the middle of nowhere. Our guide stops and tells us of a vine that has water in it. Being from the ´show me´state, I needed to see, so he cut off a nice chunk, and sure enough, the water poured out as if it was a giant straw, we all drank our fill. A bit later he showed us of a ´good´tasting bug that was inside a rotten fruit dropped from a tree, I had to try it!...even though it looked more or less like a magot, I ate it, and it actually tasted like coconut (the fruit it was eating), but the texture I could do with out!
We got back and quickly boarded the canoe, because its dolphin spotting time! Sure enough, not far from the house pink dolphins are swimming in the river. I didn´t even know there were fresh water dolphins!?! Very cool. At night is when the jungle truley comes alive....and not just the mosquitos...although they do too. Everything is out at night, escaping the heat. We went out on a hike and saw countless spiders, bats, frogs, and crazy looking bugs! If any of you are divers, I really think going into the jungle at night is a similar expierence to diving in the ocean, you are even supposed to keep your hands in the same resting position...the general rule is don´t touch anything! Finally into my mosquito net for the night, I slept like a baby- relived from the constant battle to keep my blood from everything trying to eat me!
The next day we set out via conoe for piranah fishing! Yup, piranahs!!! I´m excited, but I was blown away when our guide called in a bunch of monkeys to us as we were fishing! It was unbelievable, they hopped right into our canoe! He came preparred with bananas and bread (aparently he has done this before) and the monkeys would literally take the bread from your hands, sit there and eat, and let you pet them! It was really an impactful expierence being able to pet, feed, and hang out with wild monkeys! Having exhausted our food suply and our memory cards, we returned home for lunch and to prepare for our journey to the next camp.
A couple of hours more of paddle power and we arrive in a secluded lake, where we check out giant lilly pads, and an amazing sunset. Here we set up camp....jungle style. We sleep in hammocks tied to trees, with mosquito nets over them, then a tarp on top of that for the rain. But before sleep we go off on another night hike, where we see some giant bullfrogs, more spiders (including a huge tarantula!...only about 15 feet from my hammock:), scorpians, a ´jungle´mouse (which is about 10x the size), and what I think is called a mormoset. Then out to the lake....which is again a whole other world at night. Some sort of glowing worms sit atop the giant lillies at light up the shores like minuture neon green lanterns. But we have bigger fish to fry, we are hunting for alligators! Using a spotlight, we endlessly search for their big eyes relecting the light from the shores. Finally one is spotted, but upon closing in, it escapes into the water. Another one is spotted, and this time success! It a baby though, just a couple of feet long, but holding a live alligator in the amazon is still cool! Our guide caught one more, also a little one, and we played with the two gators pretty much all night long! I wanted to see a fight between them and the tarantula, but he wasn´t having it.
After all the action we return to base camp to start our journey back to Iquitos. Just as I was a little sad that I hadn´t yet wrestled a giant anaconda, our guide spots a rainbow boa constrictor, just chilling out on the roof of the shelter! After sending someone up to retrive him, again we all got to hold, this very beautiful boa, native to the region. What a perfect ending to my jungle expierence, anyone who wants to see a different world and enjoys nature, truley needs to go to the Amazon.
We choose for the more hard core expierence (of course), so we didn´t exactly stay in some ritzy eco lodge with a swimming pool and such. It was non-stop action from the moment we left Iquitos....at 6 in the morning the first day. It was like expierencing the evolution of transportation systems from the last 200 years in half a day. First, a 2 hour taxi ride on decent roads, then 2 hour water taxi that was basically a nice canoe with a motor on the back, then we switch to paddle power for about half an hour, and finally a 15 minute hike to base camp. Welcome, you have officially transported yourself back in time 200 years. The villages we pass on the way are made entirely of the local timber, complete with palm leaved roofs- it really looks like not much has changed here for a while, except peoples clothing....which is surprisingly normal. Also stricking on the journey was the sheer size and might of the amazon river. It is huge!! Im talking 5 times as wide as the mississippi, 3 times as deep, and twice as muddy! And this is at the very begining of the river!
As soon as we reach the first nights destination, we put our stuff down and trade in our comfy sandels for jungle boots. Which are thick rubber, knee high boots. They look really cool when you tuck in your long pants into them too...and yes its required, you know- so the spiders don´t crawl up your pants! It´s dusk now, and our first venture out was more about the plants than the animals. We didn´t need to go far before our guide was telling us, this tree cures this, this plants helps that, and these leaves can build you this. It is truley full of everything you need to survive...and live quite comfortably, except of course that you are in the middle of nowhere. Our guide stops and tells us of a vine that has water in it. Being from the ´show me´state, I needed to see, so he cut off a nice chunk, and sure enough, the water poured out as if it was a giant straw, we all drank our fill. A bit later he showed us of a ´good´tasting bug that was inside a rotten fruit dropped from a tree, I had to try it!...even though it looked more or less like a magot, I ate it, and it actually tasted like coconut (the fruit it was eating), but the texture I could do with out!
We got back and quickly boarded the canoe, because its dolphin spotting time! Sure enough, not far from the house pink dolphins are swimming in the river. I didn´t even know there were fresh water dolphins!?! Very cool. At night is when the jungle truley comes alive....and not just the mosquitos...although they do too. Everything is out at night, escaping the heat. We went out on a hike and saw countless spiders, bats, frogs, and crazy looking bugs! If any of you are divers, I really think going into the jungle at night is a similar expierence to diving in the ocean, you are even supposed to keep your hands in the same resting position...the general rule is don´t touch anything! Finally into my mosquito net for the night, I slept like a baby- relived from the constant battle to keep my blood from everything trying to eat me!
The next day we set out via conoe for piranah fishing! Yup, piranahs!!! I´m excited, but I was blown away when our guide called in a bunch of monkeys to us as we were fishing! It was unbelievable, they hopped right into our canoe! He came preparred with bananas and bread (aparently he has done this before) and the monkeys would literally take the bread from your hands, sit there and eat, and let you pet them! It was really an impactful expierence being able to pet, feed, and hang out with wild monkeys! Having exhausted our food suply and our memory cards, we returned home for lunch and to prepare for our journey to the next camp.
A couple of hours more of paddle power and we arrive in a secluded lake, where we check out giant lilly pads, and an amazing sunset. Here we set up camp....jungle style. We sleep in hammocks tied to trees, with mosquito nets over them, then a tarp on top of that for the rain. But before sleep we go off on another night hike, where we see some giant bullfrogs, more spiders (including a huge tarantula!...only about 15 feet from my hammock:), scorpians, a ´jungle´mouse (which is about 10x the size), and what I think is called a mormoset. Then out to the lake....which is again a whole other world at night. Some sort of glowing worms sit atop the giant lillies at light up the shores like minuture neon green lanterns. But we have bigger fish to fry, we are hunting for alligators! Using a spotlight, we endlessly search for their big eyes relecting the light from the shores. Finally one is spotted, but upon closing in, it escapes into the water. Another one is spotted, and this time success! It a baby though, just a couple of feet long, but holding a live alligator in the amazon is still cool! Our guide caught one more, also a little one, and we played with the two gators pretty much all night long! I wanted to see a fight between them and the tarantula, but he wasn´t having it.
After all the action we return to base camp to start our journey back to Iquitos. Just as I was a little sad that I hadn´t yet wrestled a giant anaconda, our guide spots a rainbow boa constrictor, just chilling out on the roof of the shelter! After sending someone up to retrive him, again we all got to hold, this very beautiful boa, native to the region. What a perfect ending to my jungle expierence, anyone who wants to see a different world and enjoys nature, truley needs to go to the Amazon.
Friday, January 16, 2009
From the Mountains to the Jungle
My legs still sore from the hike, I decided it was time to get moving. I saw what I wanted to see in Huaraz, and there is a lot more to do here. So, off to a fun 8 hour bus ride to Lima- then to catch a flight to Iquitos. Incidently, the largest city in the world that can not be reached by road.
I stayed the night in Lima in order to catch a flight the next day. I ended up getting some really cool pictures of the plaza de armas in central Lima, which happen to look really cool at night. Hopefully I will get those posted up soon.
Also, the next morning....to keep myself occupied, I visited some catacombs in the basement of an old church, also right on the plaza of central Lima. Anyone, who knew the house at 24 E. Stewart rd. in Columbia.....this room was like a maze of underground crematories, with the same type of foundation and molding as the house in Columbia....and that same very creepy feeling. You would easily get lost in the maze of tunnels if it were not for the guide. So, picture a dark, musty, bricks and morter maze, with 4-5 ft ceiling heights....only because that is when they stopped piling in bodies. So, yes, you are walking over really old dead bodies, and there are bones everywhere! Complete with skulls. Only the strong bones surived, becuase they actually put some type of limestone mixture over each body to speed up the decompisition. Appartantly it was a popular spot! They estimate that 25,000 people were barried there between around 1620 and 1820...when more tradition barial methods were put into place.
So, feeling nice and uplifted that I was still alive- I went to the airport, and easily navigated my way through. Lima is a big city, about 8 million people- but I swear I was the only one at the airport yesterday. Me and a few other gringos traveling through. The major airline here is LAN, and going to the tickett counter was wierd. It´s a little strange to me anyway that most everyone here looks alike. But, when they are all women, and all wearing the same uniform, it is a little psycadelic! I felt like they were some genetically engineered army from the future!
Finally, I have arrived in Iquitos. A town of about 400,000 people- it feels more like Brazil than it does Peru. I can already tell it is a little rough around the edges. If I were to take a wild guess, I would say that there are more drugs, and more crime here than the other cities I have visited thus far. Just the feeling I get. All you St. Louisans think you know about humidity....its definitly 100% here, I feel like I need a machety just to cut my way through the air when I walk down the street! Soon, I will head out to the jungle! (the whole reason everyone comes here) with the promise of seeing many really cool animals, and a hefty price tag to boot. Weather or not we actually see all those animals remains to be seen....but hopefully I´ll be wresteling alligators and anacondas soon.
I stayed the night in Lima in order to catch a flight the next day. I ended up getting some really cool pictures of the plaza de armas in central Lima, which happen to look really cool at night. Hopefully I will get those posted up soon.
Also, the next morning....to keep myself occupied, I visited some catacombs in the basement of an old church, also right on the plaza of central Lima. Anyone, who knew the house at 24 E. Stewart rd. in Columbia.....this room was like a maze of underground crematories, with the same type of foundation and molding as the house in Columbia....and that same very creepy feeling. You would easily get lost in the maze of tunnels if it were not for the guide. So, picture a dark, musty, bricks and morter maze, with 4-5 ft ceiling heights....only because that is when they stopped piling in bodies. So, yes, you are walking over really old dead bodies, and there are bones everywhere! Complete with skulls. Only the strong bones surived, becuase they actually put some type of limestone mixture over each body to speed up the decompisition. Appartantly it was a popular spot! They estimate that 25,000 people were barried there between around 1620 and 1820...when more tradition barial methods were put into place.
So, feeling nice and uplifted that I was still alive- I went to the airport, and easily navigated my way through. Lima is a big city, about 8 million people- but I swear I was the only one at the airport yesterday. Me and a few other gringos traveling through. The major airline here is LAN, and going to the tickett counter was wierd. It´s a little strange to me anyway that most everyone here looks alike. But, when they are all women, and all wearing the same uniform, it is a little psycadelic! I felt like they were some genetically engineered army from the future!
Finally, I have arrived in Iquitos. A town of about 400,000 people- it feels more like Brazil than it does Peru. I can already tell it is a little rough around the edges. If I were to take a wild guess, I would say that there are more drugs, and more crime here than the other cities I have visited thus far. Just the feeling I get. All you St. Louisans think you know about humidity....its definitly 100% here, I feel like I need a machety just to cut my way through the air when I walk down the street! Soon, I will head out to the jungle! (the whole reason everyone comes here) with the promise of seeing many really cool animals, and a hefty price tag to boot. Weather or not we actually see all those animals remains to be seen....but hopefully I´ll be wresteling alligators and anacondas soon.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
1 Point for the Peruvians
Me and my new found friends were shopping in the market for warm cloths for our upcomming journey. I wanted something warm for my....well, my everything. I needed a hat, sweater, and pants. Since everything made of alpaca wool here is both warm and cheap, it was the natural starting point.
After driving, what we thought was a hard bargin (I'm sure it was still marked up for us gringo's). We walked away with some hats, and a couple of sweaters. But one shop we stopped at for a while, we did not buy anything from, but tried on many of their things. We did this at many of the stores...or more like tables set up at this open air market.
But as we were returning home, one of my new friends relized he was missing his backpack. A quick panic went through him as he had credit cards and money in his bag. He ran back to the market and checked all of the shops. The one shop, where we tried many things on but didn't buy anything, had actually set his bag aside and was waiting for him to return for it.
Nothing was gone! Even the cash was all there. You always have to keep your gaurd up when traveling, but it is sure good to know that when you slip up (which you inevitably will), there will not always be a bad person there to capitalize on your mistake.
After driving, what we thought was a hard bargin (I'm sure it was still marked up for us gringo's). We walked away with some hats, and a couple of sweaters. But one shop we stopped at for a while, we did not buy anything from, but tried on many of their things. We did this at many of the stores...or more like tables set up at this open air market.
But as we were returning home, one of my new friends relized he was missing his backpack. A quick panic went through him as he had credit cards and money in his bag. He ran back to the market and checked all of the shops. The one shop, where we tried many things on but didn't buy anything, had actually set his bag aside and was waiting for him to return for it.
Nothing was gone! Even the cash was all there. You always have to keep your gaurd up when traveling, but it is sure good to know that when you slip up (which you inevitably will), there will not always be a bad person there to capitalize on your mistake.
I Went to Pizza Hut
I´m not proud of it...but it happened. What can I say, I was in Lima...and craving a good pie. So, naturally I asked around. The guy working the desk at the hostal was friendly, and we had talked a lot since I had been there. I trusted his opinion.
There is a nice strip of tourist friendly, pedestrian only, over priced, resturaunts and bars just accross the park from the hostal. Many of the resturants feature pizza and pasta. I simply wanted to know what the best one was.
My response? "Go to Pizza Hut"
I coudn't believe it, so I inquired further. What? really? thats the best? Yes, he replied, all of the other places have bad food and are over priced. Who am I to tell this man he is wrong.
I went to Pizza Hut.....and I orderd the "Americano" :)
There is a nice strip of tourist friendly, pedestrian only, over priced, resturaunts and bars just accross the park from the hostal. Many of the resturants feature pizza and pasta. I simply wanted to know what the best one was.
My response? "Go to Pizza Hut"
I coudn't believe it, so I inquired further. What? really? thats the best? Yes, he replied, all of the other places have bad food and are over priced. Who am I to tell this man he is wrong.
I went to Pizza Hut.....and I orderd the "Americano" :)
On Top of the World
Wow, what an amazing expierence I just had! I have been hiking in the Andes, specifically I just completed the Santa Cruz trail, in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range near the town of Huaraz, Peru.
We started with a nice great gruop of 7. Two other Americans who were both transplants to the country, one studying in Vermont from Spain, and another who moved over with his family from Germany because his dad was recruited to be a proffesor at MIT....not bad! They were madly in love! There was also one Australian, two from Sweeden, and one from Denmark. 4 guys and 3 girls. A three hour bus ride started the trip from Huaraz, it was tight..and we were all tired leaving at 7 am. We arrived around 10, and everyone was ready to go. We had a quick snack, asked a couple of English guys where the trail head was, and we were on our way!
At first the trail winded through small farms were the locals again speak Quechan, and hardly any Spanish, which made it hard to communicate, but not impossible. The first woman we encountered begged us for medicine for her eye, one girl whipped out some eye drops and the woman gladly accepted the gift. These people are completely cut off from the world. They grow what they eat, they cook over fire, there is no electricity or plumbing. In fact, the people that we talked to don´t even use money....for anything! Its like stepping back in time 2 or 300 years.
Soon the farms become fewer and fewer and we find ourselves alone in a wonderfully beautiful wilderness. Ranging rivers, fed by terrific waterfalls, wide sweeping medows, and of course amazing snow capped mountains looming overhead. In fact, had I the slightest inclination that we were actually going to be climbing to the top of one of these, I would have thought twice about the whole trip. But, as they say, ignorance is bliss. I figured the trek would walk along the valley of all the great peaks, follow a moderate climb and then decend down.....I was wrong. As was the map that I had bought, which may as well have mapped out a McDonald's playland.
After 5 hours of hiking the first day we had reached our first camp site...and just in time. It began to rain about 4 pm, around 7 it turned into hail, and it didn't stop until, conveinently just before we woke in the morning. After all it is the rainy season here. We awoke to soggy everything, not a pleasent surprise. 2 of the three tents leaked, and many sleeping bags were wet. I managed to stay dry, but many of my things did not. After a long, cold night the other Americans, the couple, decided they were in over their heads, they swiftly and gladly turned around and hiked back to the place were we began. I think everyone considered leaving, but in the end 5 of us decided to continue on.
We packed up, a little wet, beat up, and shocked at the conditions, and hopped back on the trail. Well, sort of. At this point the trail is more like a river, and we rock hopped and rode the edges in a desperate attempt to keep our boots dry. It was to be a big day, we had a 6 hour hike to the summit, and then two hours down to our next campsite. We would accend 1000 meters....or 3,280 ft. during the first 6 hours. We passed through multiple different ecosystems, and you could literally watch the vegitation and wildlife change every 30 minutes or so. As we climbed, I began to realize that those monsterous mountains looming overhead the night before, were getting smaller. We were almost even with the clouds now, and after the clouds came the glaciers, and after the glaciers came the peak. Every hour got tougher, harder to breath, steeper trails, and worse weather. It was difficult to keep going, but I was handeling the altitude relatively well, with the exception of gasping for air, often!, I felt lucky not to expierence any symptoms of the very real and serious altitude sickness. Up there, everything is serious. A wet foot, a turned ankle, a bad knee, a headache...can turn into serious issues quick.
The summit was absolutely exceptional!!! A feeling I will never forget, I was euphoric. I have never ran a marathon before, but runner often speak of a runners high....I definitly felt a real spiritual an emotional high when I reached the top. Whe I looked over to the other side, I almost broke down into tears. A wonderful lake sat at the bottom of several peaks all with massive, awsome blue white glaciers. You could see for miles, and the valley ahead was blanketed with inviting sunshine and turqouise blue lakes.
All five made it to the top, mentally convincing others that all was well, and everyone was going to make it, was no small part of the mission. Upon summiting, we celebrated with pictures and food. I literally felt on top of the world.
After starting the decent we were all in good spirits, and we were flying down the mountain, as it was such a treat from the change of climbing. 15 minutes of treking down, we heard what sounded like a mean thounder from the grey sky above....but upon further visual inspection, we quickly watched as a massive piece of the glacier beside us tore away from the mountain side, plumeting, with building moumentum into the lake below. It was terrific! I have always wanted to see both a glacier, and an avalanche, I achieved both on this trip!
After a couple of hours down we reached our campsite. The sun was shinning! A first in the last 24 hours or so, everone took out everything wet in a desperate attempt to dry them out. We got things drapped over everything, and even had time for 5 minutes of laying down absorbing the gift of sunshine. Only to be rudly awakened by a quickly aproaching storm. We scrambled to pitch our tents and get things inside, but the damage was already done. Things were wet....again. We tried to make dinner and eat, but it was hard being wet and cold.
We took off early the next day, determined to make this 4 day trek into a 3 day trek, we had a long day ahead of us. It started without breakfeast, and soon became a wrong turn on the trail. Actually the trail sort of stopped and we kept going. We knew we were heading in the right direction along this flat, luch green valley, so we felt like everything was ok. There were many small strems in this valley, and soon they combined to form a river. About 200 meters or so after this happened, we realized the trail was on the other side of the river. Not wanting to turn back, we treked across the other side of the lake into which the river flowed. Blazing our own trail was extremely difficult, upon reaching the other side of the lake, we realized the river continued.....but after a little searching we found a great gift...a bridge!! It saved us! We figured that it took at least an hour or two out of our day...but relieved of our recent turmoil, and back on the trail everyone felt good. Still determined to finish on this 3rd day, we continued on. We hiked 10 hours this day down steep hills, in mud, sand, rock, gravel, and water there were amazing sights to be had along the way. Just when we were making good progress one of the girls went down, turning her ankle and brusining her knee. Everyone stopped for the verdict. Waiting in suspense as her pain subsided to hear her diagnosis. She concluded she could keep going, pack and all. I was relieved, we only had a couple of hours left, but every step of the way is tough.
Making it to town seemed almost surreal. Only a few houses, the people were friendly and showed us the way to the ´collectivo´which is essentially a taxi. A nerve wreking 1 hour drive on high mountain dirt roads followed. I was nervous, but we soon reached the town where we caught a bus to Huaraz. Two hours of 60 mph on pot hole ridden roads, made for another nerve wrecker, considering your pack...with everything in it, was tied to the roof in about 30 seconds. I mostly spent my time watching out the back window, waiting for it to fall off! Luckily it didn´t, and our trip was complete. A hot shower awaited at the hostel, and a well deserved dinner and drinks were had by all to celebrate.
I must say this was by far the coolest expierence I have had here so far. I will never forget the sights and feelings of triumph during this trek.
Get comfortable for this one, its a long one!
I will try to give you some perspective of how amazing this mountain range is....but I think it will be hard. They have 6 peaks over 6,000 meters high....thats 19,680 ft., the tallest is 22,199 ft. The tallest in the states is Mt. Denali in Alaska at 20,320 ft., and outside of Alaska, the tallest in the continentat 48 is Mt. Whitney in CA comming in at a meer 14,505 ft. My hike peaked at 15,678....and it was truley incredible! I´m sort of at a loss of words for explaining it all, but I will try, and start at the begining.We started with a nice great gruop of 7. Two other Americans who were both transplants to the country, one studying in Vermont from Spain, and another who moved over with his family from Germany because his dad was recruited to be a proffesor at MIT....not bad! They were madly in love! There was also one Australian, two from Sweeden, and one from Denmark. 4 guys and 3 girls. A three hour bus ride started the trip from Huaraz, it was tight..and we were all tired leaving at 7 am. We arrived around 10, and everyone was ready to go. We had a quick snack, asked a couple of English guys where the trail head was, and we were on our way!
At first the trail winded through small farms were the locals again speak Quechan, and hardly any Spanish, which made it hard to communicate, but not impossible. The first woman we encountered begged us for medicine for her eye, one girl whipped out some eye drops and the woman gladly accepted the gift. These people are completely cut off from the world. They grow what they eat, they cook over fire, there is no electricity or plumbing. In fact, the people that we talked to don´t even use money....for anything! Its like stepping back in time 2 or 300 years.
Soon the farms become fewer and fewer and we find ourselves alone in a wonderfully beautiful wilderness. Ranging rivers, fed by terrific waterfalls, wide sweeping medows, and of course amazing snow capped mountains looming overhead. In fact, had I the slightest inclination that we were actually going to be climbing to the top of one of these, I would have thought twice about the whole trip. But, as they say, ignorance is bliss. I figured the trek would walk along the valley of all the great peaks, follow a moderate climb and then decend down.....I was wrong. As was the map that I had bought, which may as well have mapped out a McDonald's playland.
After 5 hours of hiking the first day we had reached our first camp site...and just in time. It began to rain about 4 pm, around 7 it turned into hail, and it didn't stop until, conveinently just before we woke in the morning. After all it is the rainy season here. We awoke to soggy everything, not a pleasent surprise. 2 of the three tents leaked, and many sleeping bags were wet. I managed to stay dry, but many of my things did not. After a long, cold night the other Americans, the couple, decided they were in over their heads, they swiftly and gladly turned around and hiked back to the place were we began. I think everyone considered leaving, but in the end 5 of us decided to continue on.
We packed up, a little wet, beat up, and shocked at the conditions, and hopped back on the trail. Well, sort of. At this point the trail is more like a river, and we rock hopped and rode the edges in a desperate attempt to keep our boots dry. It was to be a big day, we had a 6 hour hike to the summit, and then two hours down to our next campsite. We would accend 1000 meters....or 3,280 ft. during the first 6 hours. We passed through multiple different ecosystems, and you could literally watch the vegitation and wildlife change every 30 minutes or so. As we climbed, I began to realize that those monsterous mountains looming overhead the night before, were getting smaller. We were almost even with the clouds now, and after the clouds came the glaciers, and after the glaciers came the peak. Every hour got tougher, harder to breath, steeper trails, and worse weather. It was difficult to keep going, but I was handeling the altitude relatively well, with the exception of gasping for air, often!, I felt lucky not to expierence any symptoms of the very real and serious altitude sickness. Up there, everything is serious. A wet foot, a turned ankle, a bad knee, a headache...can turn into serious issues quick.
The summit was absolutely exceptional!!! A feeling I will never forget, I was euphoric. I have never ran a marathon before, but runner often speak of a runners high....I definitly felt a real spiritual an emotional high when I reached the top. Whe I looked over to the other side, I almost broke down into tears. A wonderful lake sat at the bottom of several peaks all with massive, awsome blue white glaciers. You could see for miles, and the valley ahead was blanketed with inviting sunshine and turqouise blue lakes.
All five made it to the top, mentally convincing others that all was well, and everyone was going to make it, was no small part of the mission. Upon summiting, we celebrated with pictures and food. I literally felt on top of the world.
After starting the decent we were all in good spirits, and we were flying down the mountain, as it was such a treat from the change of climbing. 15 minutes of treking down, we heard what sounded like a mean thounder from the grey sky above....but upon further visual inspection, we quickly watched as a massive piece of the glacier beside us tore away from the mountain side, plumeting, with building moumentum into the lake below. It was terrific! I have always wanted to see both a glacier, and an avalanche, I achieved both on this trip!
After a couple of hours down we reached our campsite. The sun was shinning! A first in the last 24 hours or so, everone took out everything wet in a desperate attempt to dry them out. We got things drapped over everything, and even had time for 5 minutes of laying down absorbing the gift of sunshine. Only to be rudly awakened by a quickly aproaching storm. We scrambled to pitch our tents and get things inside, but the damage was already done. Things were wet....again. We tried to make dinner and eat, but it was hard being wet and cold.
We took off early the next day, determined to make this 4 day trek into a 3 day trek, we had a long day ahead of us. It started without breakfeast, and soon became a wrong turn on the trail. Actually the trail sort of stopped and we kept going. We knew we were heading in the right direction along this flat, luch green valley, so we felt like everything was ok. There were many small strems in this valley, and soon they combined to form a river. About 200 meters or so after this happened, we realized the trail was on the other side of the river. Not wanting to turn back, we treked across the other side of the lake into which the river flowed. Blazing our own trail was extremely difficult, upon reaching the other side of the lake, we realized the river continued.....but after a little searching we found a great gift...a bridge!! It saved us! We figured that it took at least an hour or two out of our day...but relieved of our recent turmoil, and back on the trail everyone felt good. Still determined to finish on this 3rd day, we continued on. We hiked 10 hours this day down steep hills, in mud, sand, rock, gravel, and water there were amazing sights to be had along the way. Just when we were making good progress one of the girls went down, turning her ankle and brusining her knee. Everyone stopped for the verdict. Waiting in suspense as her pain subsided to hear her diagnosis. She concluded she could keep going, pack and all. I was relieved, we only had a couple of hours left, but every step of the way is tough.
Making it to town seemed almost surreal. Only a few houses, the people were friendly and showed us the way to the ´collectivo´which is essentially a taxi. A nerve wreking 1 hour drive on high mountain dirt roads followed. I was nervous, but we soon reached the town where we caught a bus to Huaraz. Two hours of 60 mph on pot hole ridden roads, made for another nerve wrecker, considering your pack...with everything in it, was tied to the roof in about 30 seconds. I mostly spent my time watching out the back window, waiting for it to fall off! Luckily it didn´t, and our trip was complete. A hot shower awaited at the hostel, and a well deserved dinner and drinks were had by all to celebrate.
I must say this was by far the coolest expierence I have had here so far. I will never forget the sights and feelings of triumph during this trek.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
My South American Bail Out
Don´t loose your debit card.
Let me be the one to tell you first, if you go to another country, where your bank doesn´t exist, and you loose the one card that allows you access to your money. You are SCREWED!
Yup, I fell victim to....well, my own stupidity. I should have brought a back up card. When I left, I was worried about it getting stolen, in which case it would not have mattered if I had a back up...becuase I would have needed to cancel the card either way..., right? Well, I didn´t think I was going to loose it. Of course, Bank of America does not have any branches anywhere in South America...nor does it have any partners. Nor will they send a new card to a foriegn country. To boot, they will not send it anywhere except the home address on your account. Regardless of how many thousands of miles away from it you are....trust me, I asked.
Yes, I had a little emergency cash stashed away. So, I thought.....a lot.....and the best idea I came up with is to start an account in Peru, and then wire transfer founds from BofA to my new account in Peru. So, I went to the only bank in town that would open an account for me with only a passport. Well, it turns out that the person sending the money (me) needs to be present at the a physical bank in order to complete an international wire transfer. Not cool. Now I have a worthless Peruvian bank account, and not much money left. What to do?
Time to call in the calvery. Yup, my parents bailed me out. I figured everyone else is getting bailed out these days....why not join in on the fun. A little money sent via western union to tide e over until we can get my new card to me in Peru. Its never cool to have to borrow money from your parents, but sometimes....its your only option.
Two FedEx packages, and $144 later, I have my debit card back. Ready to go, problem solved.
Moral of the story, when you are in a place where no one knows you, and you know no one, try to hold onto the one card that is the link between you and your bank account....its sort of important.
Let me be the one to tell you first, if you go to another country, where your bank doesn´t exist, and you loose the one card that allows you access to your money. You are SCREWED!
Yup, I fell victim to....well, my own stupidity. I should have brought a back up card. When I left, I was worried about it getting stolen, in which case it would not have mattered if I had a back up...becuase I would have needed to cancel the card either way..., right? Well, I didn´t think I was going to loose it. Of course, Bank of America does not have any branches anywhere in South America...nor does it have any partners. Nor will they send a new card to a foriegn country. To boot, they will not send it anywhere except the home address on your account. Regardless of how many thousands of miles away from it you are....trust me, I asked.
Yes, I had a little emergency cash stashed away. So, I thought.....a lot.....and the best idea I came up with is to start an account in Peru, and then wire transfer founds from BofA to my new account in Peru. So, I went to the only bank in town that would open an account for me with only a passport. Well, it turns out that the person sending the money (me) needs to be present at the a physical bank in order to complete an international wire transfer. Not cool. Now I have a worthless Peruvian bank account, and not much money left. What to do?
Time to call in the calvery. Yup, my parents bailed me out. I figured everyone else is getting bailed out these days....why not join in on the fun. A little money sent via western union to tide e over until we can get my new card to me in Peru. Its never cool to have to borrow money from your parents, but sometimes....its your only option.
Two FedEx packages, and $144 later, I have my debit card back. Ready to go, problem solved.
Moral of the story, when you are in a place where no one knows you, and you know no one, try to hold onto the one card that is the link between you and your bank account....its sort of important.
It´s Good to Have Friends
Once again I called up my Peruvian friend from Chicago. He was excited to hear from me again, and immediatly suggested that we get together for dinner. Percisely what I was calling for....how convienent.?. He told me to call him in an hour, and as I was leaving the hostel to call him, there he was waiting for me with a car. What service! Again it was me, him, and his younger brother. We went to a new neighborhood called Pueblo Libre (Free Town in English). We ate at a nice family joint, enjoyed some great seafood, two bottles of wine, and added a new drink to my repetua... its called a cocochino, and its Pisco (the national spirit) tonic, and lime. A great classic drink. I enjoyed it.
I also felt privledged to be able to see more neighborhoods of Lima than most of the others. I have now seen and explored Lima (proper downtown), Miraflores, San Isidro, Surco, Barranco, Surcillo, Molina, Sur del la Molina, and now Pueblo Libre. Most people just pass through Lima, and maybe spend a night or two in Miraflores on the start or finish of their trip. I stayed and explored.
While Miraflores is by far the popular choice, each neighborhood has its own vibe. Pueblo Libre was a quiet, undisturbed town arranged around a public square or plaza, as almost every town I have seen in Peru is. It feels safe, but only because I am with my two local guides. According to them, this is not a place for tourists...ie: me, to come alone. Of course, it has instantly become cooler in my mind, and I become instantly more thankful and happy that I have a friend here to show me around. We passed through San Isidro on the way- the area is more mature, and I get the feeling its the old money section of Lima. Mid century condo buildings raise above the parks for competing views, and the streets and sidewalks are noticably absent from much activity. The Japanese embassy is housed here, and it looks like a maximum security prison! 15 foot high walls, with a gaurd tower on each corner, barb wire on top, complete with prison style lights and cameras. Its not even in operation, and there were still gaurds there! This is the response to terrorist attacks on it in the 90´s, by Peru´s own ´Shinning Path¨ terrorist....the organization was created by a professor at a University in Ayacucho.
Miraflores, my home for the moment, is equally well to do, but with a younger, ore vibrant twist to it. Where the streets in San Isidro are preserved as strickly residential, the street level activity of miraflores is rampant and varried. It creates a buzzing atmosphere...which I like. I have also met other fun travelers, and together we ventured out to Barranco for drinks. Barranco is close to nice beaches, and is known to be the more bohemian of the neighborhoods. Many mansions sit neglected here, sporting paint from whichever local gang has painted it last. But the views out over the ocean are expansive and impressive. Also the bar and club scene are some of the best in Lima. Molina and Sur de la Molina are where my friend lives, it is east of the city, and is supposedly where the people with money are now moving to. The American Embassy is housed here, and is a giant compound!
I have enjoyed my time in Lima, but now it is time to move on. I head for Huaraz tonight, where amazing mountain views and hiking await.
I also felt privledged to be able to see more neighborhoods of Lima than most of the others. I have now seen and explored Lima (proper downtown), Miraflores, San Isidro, Surco, Barranco, Surcillo, Molina, Sur del la Molina, and now Pueblo Libre. Most people just pass through Lima, and maybe spend a night or two in Miraflores on the start or finish of their trip. I stayed and explored.
While Miraflores is by far the popular choice, each neighborhood has its own vibe. Pueblo Libre was a quiet, undisturbed town arranged around a public square or plaza, as almost every town I have seen in Peru is. It feels safe, but only because I am with my two local guides. According to them, this is not a place for tourists...ie: me, to come alone. Of course, it has instantly become cooler in my mind, and I become instantly more thankful and happy that I have a friend here to show me around. We passed through San Isidro on the way- the area is more mature, and I get the feeling its the old money section of Lima. Mid century condo buildings raise above the parks for competing views, and the streets and sidewalks are noticably absent from much activity. The Japanese embassy is housed here, and it looks like a maximum security prison! 15 foot high walls, with a gaurd tower on each corner, barb wire on top, complete with prison style lights and cameras. Its not even in operation, and there were still gaurds there! This is the response to terrorist attacks on it in the 90´s, by Peru´s own ´Shinning Path¨ terrorist....the organization was created by a professor at a University in Ayacucho.
Miraflores, my home for the moment, is equally well to do, but with a younger, ore vibrant twist to it. Where the streets in San Isidro are preserved as strickly residential, the street level activity of miraflores is rampant and varried. It creates a buzzing atmosphere...which I like. I have also met other fun travelers, and together we ventured out to Barranco for drinks. Barranco is close to nice beaches, and is known to be the more bohemian of the neighborhoods. Many mansions sit neglected here, sporting paint from whichever local gang has painted it last. But the views out over the ocean are expansive and impressive. Also the bar and club scene are some of the best in Lima. Molina and Sur de la Molina are where my friend lives, it is east of the city, and is supposedly where the people with money are now moving to. The American Embassy is housed here, and is a giant compound!
I have enjoyed my time in Lima, but now it is time to move on. I head for Huaraz tonight, where amazing mountain views and hiking await.
Sunday, January 4, 2009
I Totally Thrashed Some Waves Today
I went to the beach today. Great decision.
I walked a long ways to scope out all the different beach areas. I found great seafood resturaunts right on the water, lots of mini soccer fields, surfing, beach food, some thongs, and a lot of relaxing Limoneon´s.
The beach itself is actually pretty rough, it is more like a bunch of pebbles rather than sand. But no one, including me, seems to care. Some people bring mats to lay on for comfort. I did not bring as much as a towel, becuase I heard that pretty much anything you bring will be stolen even if you just leave it for a quick swim. Nevertheless, I was comfortable.
I got a chicken sandwich for a dollar on the beach. Feeling full, strong, and rich, I decide to takle the all ellusive sport of surfing. I have attempted to learn the sport once before...in the same ocean- just several thousand miles north of here...at Venice Beach in LA. The Pacific had the best of me that first day of lessons. But today.....today....I triumphed! I was riding! It was great! I had a much smaller board this time, and I think that made it easier (ironically since they say the big boards are easier). I didn´t feel rushed at all, (partly because I only paid about 5 bucks for the board) and once I got out there I just chilled, and waited for the right wave. It was great, I felt like I was part of the club- the locals were even giving me tips and cheering me on along the way. Most of them anyway...one guy was a little pissed at me because he thought I stole his wave, since I was farther out than him...I caught it first...what can I say I don`t know the rules.?.? But I love that I met both some friends and foes in the water. I totally feel like a legitimate surfer now! I will admit that the movie Point Break entered my mid at least a few times today.
Even with all the success there were of course some failures as well. And I hope that all the salt water that accidently entered my body won´t kill me, especially since there are public warnings about the polution in the water....what can I say....I could`t resist :)
I walked a long ways to scope out all the different beach areas. I found great seafood resturaunts right on the water, lots of mini soccer fields, surfing, beach food, some thongs, and a lot of relaxing Limoneon´s.
The beach itself is actually pretty rough, it is more like a bunch of pebbles rather than sand. But no one, including me, seems to care. Some people bring mats to lay on for comfort. I did not bring as much as a towel, becuase I heard that pretty much anything you bring will be stolen even if you just leave it for a quick swim. Nevertheless, I was comfortable.
I got a chicken sandwich for a dollar on the beach. Feeling full, strong, and rich, I decide to takle the all ellusive sport of surfing. I have attempted to learn the sport once before...in the same ocean- just several thousand miles north of here...at Venice Beach in LA. The Pacific had the best of me that first day of lessons. But today.....today....I triumphed! I was riding! It was great! I had a much smaller board this time, and I think that made it easier (ironically since they say the big boards are easier). I didn´t feel rushed at all, (partly because I only paid about 5 bucks for the board) and once I got out there I just chilled, and waited for the right wave. It was great, I felt like I was part of the club- the locals were even giving me tips and cheering me on along the way. Most of them anyway...one guy was a little pissed at me because he thought I stole his wave, since I was farther out than him...I caught it first...what can I say I don`t know the rules.?.? But I love that I met both some friends and foes in the water. I totally feel like a legitimate surfer now! I will admit that the movie Point Break entered my mid at least a few times today.
Even with all the success there were of course some failures as well. And I hope that all the salt water that accidently entered my body won´t kill me, especially since there are public warnings about the polution in the water....what can I say....I could`t resist :)
Kennedy Park
The park next door to my hostel here in Miraflores, and in the heart this busteling-boardering-suburb of Lima, sits Kennedy Park. Surprisingly named after our very own, late, great John Fitzgereld. A bust sits in the park citing his namesake because of the brotherhood he fostered between Miraflores and Pensacola. There are some interesting things to note about life in and around the park. 
For one, its packed at night and deserted during the day. This is funy to me, because there many parks in the states that I would love to visit in the day, but wouldn`t (or maybe would) be caught dead there at night. At 10 pm, the playground is literally packed with families. Children swinging on the swings and climbing on the jungle gym, all at full capacity. This morning at 10 am, there were maybe 5 people there as I ate my daily breakfeast at the outdoor cafe next to the park. Everyday, I think I`m one of the few up before 10 am. I was actually surprised to see the internet cafe open....it is the only store on the block open right now.
The nighttime activity does not just apply to the playground. There is a cirlce plaza where merchants set up tables to sell goods/souveniers everynight. In the middle of the park shoe shine men own the benches, and are busy at work polishing up men`s work shoes and travelers`newly broken in hiking boots just back from Machu Pichu. At the north end, near the busy circle intersection that is at the tip of this park the sidewalk edge is lined with artists. Everynight they come to display their work, and continue their art on the city provided easles.
To cap everything off, lining almost every edge are resturaunts where men sit to be seen. Yes men, not women. They sit and sip their pisco sours and cafe`s discussing politics and saying hi to all the friends who frequently walk by and stop to say hello. The seem like politicians to me, and I desprately want to join the club!
Last night, along a side street a cafe played jazz music as men played chess outside at the several tables built into the pedestrian only streetscape. I watched. I could never hang with these speed demons....it was cool to watch though, I think I picked up some good strategies.
For one, its packed at night and deserted during the day. This is funy to me, because there many parks in the states that I would love to visit in the day, but wouldn`t (or maybe would) be caught dead there at night. At 10 pm, the playground is literally packed with families. Children swinging on the swings and climbing on the jungle gym, all at full capacity. This morning at 10 am, there were maybe 5 people there as I ate my daily breakfeast at the outdoor cafe next to the park. Everyday, I think I`m one of the few up before 10 am. I was actually surprised to see the internet cafe open....it is the only store on the block open right now.
The nighttime activity does not just apply to the playground. There is a cirlce plaza where merchants set up tables to sell goods/souveniers everynight. In the middle of the park shoe shine men own the benches, and are busy at work polishing up men`s work shoes and travelers`newly broken in hiking boots just back from Machu Pichu. At the north end, near the busy circle intersection that is at the tip of this park the sidewalk edge is lined with artists. Everynight they come to display their work, and continue their art on the city provided easles.
To cap everything off, lining almost every edge are resturaunts where men sit to be seen. Yes men, not women. They sit and sip their pisco sours and cafe`s discussing politics and saying hi to all the friends who frequently walk by and stop to say hello. The seem like politicians to me, and I desprately want to join the club!
Last night, along a side street a cafe played jazz music as men played chess outside at the several tables built into the pedestrian only streetscape. I watched. I could never hang with these speed demons....it was cool to watch though, I think I picked up some good strategies.
Saturday, January 3, 2009
English: The Double Edged Sword
As I spend more time in Lima, I find my Español progress has all but stopped. Everyone speaks English to me!! It`s difficult, and I`m not sure there is any perfect combination of the two languages. Because- when I was in Ayacuch no one spoke English, and while it was difficult and at times incredibly frustrating- I was learning...by force! When I arrived in Lima I was excited to speak with the host at the hostel who spent 2 years in Australia and speaks great English. There were also some Aulstralians and Canadians here in the hostel, as well as Europeans, and they pretty much all speak decent English. Also, here in Lima the people are ok at English. But, whats more is that they almost always try speaking it to me....which is a nice gesture. BUT, one of my goals for my travels ws to learn as much Español as I could...and this is making things difficult. Especially becuase all of the places I go to, are the places where they are most likely to speak English. The hotels, the nicer resturaunts, the tourist towns and sights.
It`s great that I can almost no matter what communicate with people...that is the gift of growing up speaking English (thank you America). But, sometimes, I wish it was it was a little more difficult.
It`s great that I can almost no matter what communicate with people...that is the gift of growing up speaking English (thank you America). But, sometimes, I wish it was it was a little more difficult.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
A New New Years Celebration
I was lucky enough to meet my Peruvian friend and former colleuge, Dr. Julio Lara-Valle here in Lima. Let me just say that it is official. I`m definitly a city person! I love being back in a big city. I am staying a nice neighborhood here in Lima called Miraflores. The beach is close by, along with stores and nice resturaunts within walking distnce, and there is a goergeous park next to the beach that runs the lenght of the city. The actual beach is not much to write home about....but I will anyway....it is mostly rocks and pebbles. But the park and the surounding cliffs (similar to that of LA) are really quite a site!
I called Dr. Lara-Valle as soon as I got settled in here, and did a few exploritory rounds of my new hood. A little to my surprise, he arrived shortly after. We went straight to a great resturaunt where we met his brother for´lunch`. Now I put this in quotes because it wasn`t your typical lunch. We started with a round of pisco sours...the national drink. Pisco, is made in Pisco, Peru and its is like some type of combination between white rum and white tequilla. Now mix this with egg whites, sugar, and sour mix....and you have a pisco sour. We were literally at this resturaunt all day! I think from 11am till 4pm. I ate my heart out!!! After two weeks of roasted chiken and rice or french fries- I was celebrating the gift of the buffet! Tons of fresh seafood, as well as other meats, local dishes, soups, deserts, and of course drinks! Our final tab was 300 soles....about 30 dolars each....and Dr. Lara-Valle was kind enough to pick up the tab!
I went back to the hostel....where there is actually a warm shower!!!!! and I got ready for the evening. Knowing all too well that Dr. Lara-Valle was trying to set me up all along with his Dr. friend, who actually lives in Chicago, but is here on a medical mission for 6 months. We may actually meet up again in the town where she will be working, Iquitos. I never really respond well to being set up, and this she is no exception to the rule. Nonetheless, it was fun to meet her, and listen to funny comments from the peanut gallery all night long!
The party started at 12:00 am...yes the stroke of the new year....literally my first drink and the first song were at midnight! Officially it started at 10...when I showed up...and again I was early for the party. The party was at my friends house, which is in a suburb of Lima called Sur de la Molina. It is a nice community to the east of the city. There was a nice crowd there, a combination of both young and old. Dinner was served around 1 am and it was chinese food. The other family that shares the property with my friend is of Chinese descent, so everything wasa decorated accordingly. There were even some kids who preformed a traditional new years dance and celebration....complete with dragon and all!
Everyone danced! All night long. Literally if you were the one sitting down, you were the outcast. And the band kept playing until the last people had either left or half fallen asleep. I was a part of the latter. I ended up sleeping at their house....in a great comfortable bed! Of which I did not enter until 5:30 in the morning. What can I say, I could not end my party before my host! I was urged to stay for breakfast....and then lunch! In which more deep political discussion were had and more wine was drank. All in all it was quite an expierence. I desperatly want some rest...but hey, how often are you in Miraflores, Lima???
I called Dr. Lara-Valle as soon as I got settled in here, and did a few exploritory rounds of my new hood. A little to my surprise, he arrived shortly after. We went straight to a great resturaunt where we met his brother for´lunch`. Now I put this in quotes because it wasn`t your typical lunch. We started with a round of pisco sours...the national drink. Pisco, is made in Pisco, Peru and its is like some type of combination between white rum and white tequilla. Now mix this with egg whites, sugar, and sour mix....and you have a pisco sour. We were literally at this resturaunt all day! I think from 11am till 4pm. I ate my heart out!!! After two weeks of roasted chiken and rice or french fries- I was celebrating the gift of the buffet! Tons of fresh seafood, as well as other meats, local dishes, soups, deserts, and of course drinks! Our final tab was 300 soles....about 30 dolars each....and Dr. Lara-Valle was kind enough to pick up the tab!
I went back to the hostel....where there is actually a warm shower!!!!! and I got ready for the evening. Knowing all too well that Dr. Lara-Valle was trying to set me up all along with his Dr. friend, who actually lives in Chicago, but is here on a medical mission for 6 months. We may actually meet up again in the town where she will be working, Iquitos. I never really respond well to being set up, and this she is no exception to the rule. Nonetheless, it was fun to meet her, and listen to funny comments from the peanut gallery all night long!
The party started at 12:00 am...yes the stroke of the new year....literally my first drink and the first song were at midnight! Officially it started at 10...when I showed up...and again I was early for the party. The party was at my friends house, which is in a suburb of Lima called Sur de la Molina. It is a nice community to the east of the city. There was a nice crowd there, a combination of both young and old. Dinner was served around 1 am and it was chinese food. The other family that shares the property with my friend is of Chinese descent, so everything wasa decorated accordingly. There were even some kids who preformed a traditional new years dance and celebration....complete with dragon and all!
Everyone danced! All night long. Literally if you were the one sitting down, you were the outcast. And the band kept playing until the last people had either left or half fallen asleep. I was a part of the latter. I ended up sleeping at their house....in a great comfortable bed! Of which I did not enter until 5:30 in the morning. What can I say, I could not end my party before my host! I was urged to stay for breakfast....and then lunch! In which more deep political discussion were had and more wine was drank. All in all it was quite an expierence. I desperatly want some rest...but hey, how often are you in Miraflores, Lima???
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