St. Louis, Missouri
A traveler’s guide to the perfect weekend in the “Gateway to the West” in 3 days
General Cool things to do/see
• Cardinals game (or Blues if they are not in season)
• Dueling piano’s on the landing
• Cocktails on the patio of Lumiere Place Casino (great skyline view of city)
• The Arch/Riverfront
• Anheuser-Busch Brewery
• Bocce Ball on the Hill
• Forest Park- the Zoo, art museums, golf course, take your pick
• City Museum
• Outdoor Play at The Muny
• Secret Room atop of Union Station
• Mardi Gras
• Soulard Market
• Botanical Gardens
• Summertime Music Festival on the Eads Bridge
• See the mosaic atop the Cathedral Basilica
• A movie and cocktail at Chase Park Plaza Hotel
DAY 1
Start at the Arch, St. Louis’s #1 must see- you cant leave with out going up to the top of this architectural marvel. Completed in 1968, it’s the countries tallest monument (630 ft). Plus- it’s a cool view. ☺ There is a nice museum chronicling the westward expansion of the US, admission is included in the ticket price to the top. Its hard to get a feeling for how big the arch is- until your are standing next to its base and looking up.
Stroll down to the Mississippi River afterwards, its not really anything to see since St. Louis’s relationship to the river is still very industrial, but many people want to say they saw it. And before you go, note the 'old cathederal'- which stand on the south west corner of the arch grounds- its the oldest standing church west of the Missippi river.
Now take a load off and head to the Anheuser-Busch Brewery, a source of much St. Louis pride, and many local jobs. This is one massive brewery! Don’t worry, free samples are given at the end. ☺ Don’t miss Guss’s Pretzels on your way out- an institution surviving on the beer Goliath next door, grab a hot one for the road to your next destination.
Choose a night out option: Pub night in Soulard, party with the tourists and dueling piano’s at “The Big Bang” on Laclede’s Landing, or check out the scene on the Washington Ave Loft District.
Day 2
Forest Park is also a must see. It was created as a home to the World’s Fair of 1904, (and St. Louisans won’t let you forget it) and I believe it is still the largest urban park in the country. You can EASILY get lost in here! Exploring the park is fun on its own, and feel free to journey around and find your favorite hidden gem- it is very safe during the day, and only slightly more dangerous at night. Take the Metro-Link to the Euclid stop in the Central West End- this is a good place for a quick detour to see the amazingly beautiful (second largest in the world) religious mosaic that adorns the ceiling of the Cathedral Basilica on Lindell its just a 15 minute walk from the train stop. If you don’t want to wander aimlessly around the park, check out one of its many attractions. #1 on that list is the St. Louis Zoo- its still free, and consistently ranks among the best Zoo’s in the country. Its also home to the Science Center (and omnimax theatre), the oldest running outdoor theater in the country- The Muny, The History Museum, and The Art Museum, among others. You could spend many days here, but alas- there is more to see!
Grab a cab over to the Hill, have a beer at Milo’s and get in on the Bocce Ball action- a true Italian way to spend the afternoon. This is truly one of the coolest Italian neighborhoods in the country, not because its glamerous or touristy- but because its real. Not just anybody can move in here- homes are rarely listed on the open market, and although that may seem elietist, it helps preserve the charactor of the area. This hood is home turf for the baseball greats like Yogi Bera, and Joe Garagiola, and the 5 St. Louisans who played on the 1950 US World Cup team that miraculously defeated England in the first round in Brazil, all grew up on the Hill. Both sports are still very important to the culture of the city today.
After you are done schooling the locals, head back downtown (either cab it all the way downtown- or take it back to the train stop on Euclid in the Central West End) to catch an evening Cardinal’s game at the new Busch Stadium. No Cardinal game?, take in an outdoor show at the Muny, maybe a local concert in the Loop, or maybe a Blues game at the Scottrade Center.
Still have energy? Go out for sushi (Drunken Fish) or cocktails (Sub Zero Vodka Bar) or cigars (Brennan's) in the Central West End, or check out the scene on Washington Ave- go to Lucas Park for people watching, Mosaic for a dinner expierence, or Nara Cafe for a taste of hookah.
Day3
Wake up early and win the freshest veggies and fruits at the market in Soulard. Don’t worry- they also serve cocktails to get your day started on the right foot.
Head over to the privately run City Museum and climb around this giant sized jungle gym with the kids- its an experience you wont forget!
Now hop back on the Metro-Link and head to the Loop. You can get on at Union Station, to check out the cool secret room I mentioned- as long as you can handle walking through the struggling-to-be-tourist attraction that is the mall inside Union Station. Nevertheless, it may be worth a quick stop- plus you can buy your “I heart STL” t-shirt here. Just ask someone where the bathrooms are, and when you get there take that grand staircase up a couple of flights, and you will see the room I am talking about.
Now- get on the metro-link and get off at the Delmar loop stop. Walk WEST, in fact ask someone- or 2 people along the way where the loop is. The stop is only a 1-2 block walk from all the action, but if you head the wrong way, you end up in no-man’s land….and you don’t want to be there. Have lunch on the street café of Blueberry Hill, grab a St. Louis favorite root beer at Fitz’s, get a tattoo at Iron Age, catch a show at the Pageant, or roll with the hipsters at Pin Up Bowl. Drink the night away at Delmar Lounge.
Neighborhoods to see-
The Loop- or the “Delmar Loop” is St. Louis’s most bohemian community. Just to the north of Washington University, it’s the recreational home to many Wash U students. Catch a show at Blueberry Hill or the larger option, The Pageant, across the street. Have a St. Louis favorite root beer from its source at Fitz’s, get a tattoo at Iron Age, and roll a strike with all the hipster’s at Pin Up Bowl. But be careful not to stray too far from the main drag (Delmar st), going south is fine since you are generally getting closer to Wash U, but going north (sometimes even a block or 2) is dangerous- especially at night.
Central West End- Perhaps St. Louis’s ritziest ‘hood- you wouldn’t really know today that at one point this neighborhood got its start welcoming same sex preferring couples from the region. Unless you look for its few and far between existing “gay friendly bars” or happen to be there for its FABULOUS Halloween street party. Now it is a neighborhood with great jobs nearby at Washington U Medical School’s BJC Healthcare Hospital, easy transportation with the Metro-Link stopping nearby, Forest Park at your fingertips, and a great concentration of bars, restaurants, and café’s at your disposal. I recommend sushi at the Drunken Fish, and then heading to either Sub Zero vodka bar or the wine and cigar bar, Brennan’s, across the street afterward, depending on your mood.
The Hill- This is St. Louis’s Italian neighborhood. Not much more need be said, except it is still known as one of the safest neighborhoods in the city (they take care of their own policing) and is famed today for its welcoming Italian eateries on almost every corner. Get a schooner of beer at Rigazzi’s, play Bacce Ball at Milo’s, or take in the old school Italian atmosphere and great food at Cunetto’s.
Soulard- more on the Irish side of things, here you wont go thirsty. This is the home to St. Louis’s own, self awarded- 2nd largest Mardi Gras festival in the country. And- it is HUGE! …and very fun, as long as you are in the mindset of dealing with crowds of drunks, looking to self expose for payment of plastic beads, Irish music in the streets, parades, and generally street “festivalness.” (yes it’s a word) The other 363 days of the year, this is a good spot to get a laid back beer. McGurck’s has a huge outdoor beer garden in the summertime, and is filled with the must see young crown of the city. More laid back versions are offered on most other corners. Oh- and if your in the mood for good eats, and a bit of a show- you absolutely must check out Johnny’s on Russell st. Through some sort of loophole in the law- this place has managed to skirt the modern day uniform laws….lets just say this place puts Hooter’s to shame! Another must see in the city is located here, the Soulard Produce Market, grab a beer and shop for some fresh produce in a turn of the century and still booming outdoor market…what could be more fun? ☺
Clayton- Clayton is St. Louis’s friendly neighbor to the west. And ever since the city turned its back on the expanding needs of the “county” in the early 20th century, Clayton has been more St. Louis’s rival than friend. Now Clayton has almost as big of a “downtown” as downtown, and is home to all of the St. Louis County’s jobs- which are many now that the county has grown. It is also home to some of the priciest real estate in the region, is known for its excellent school system, is safe- and offers close proximity to the city and counties alike. Grab a beef sandwich at Café Manhattan during the day, then stroll down Wydown and check out the mansions. Or, take a cigar and cognac in the lobby bar at the Ritz Hotel. Or be seen on the scene for cocktails at Miso or Bar Napoli. Rather chill at the pub? Check out John P Fields or Kilkenny’s. How about tapas? Check into the hot BARcelona. If you’re here in the summer, take a few hours off and dip into the Olympic sized pool in Shaw park- just a few bucks for non-residents.
Washington Ave Loft District- St. Louis’s big gamble paid off, at least I would say so, some others may still disagree. But, downtown St. Louis-and the city in general, have been in population decline since the 1950’s, just like many other American cities. Many times during those years, St. Louis has tried- and failed- to bring the people back. Just 10-15 years ago, Washington Ave was a red-light district, the black eye entertainment hub of the city. Now, nearly every building on this strip- which were once major manufacturing spaces, are now converted into Loft apartments or condo’s. That is the good news, the bad news is-although purchased- many of these condo’s were purchased by investors and many still sit empty. That being said- the neighborhood is perhaps the coolest in the city! Many hip bars and trendy restaurants call this neighborhood home (don't miss Lucas Park for a cocktail, or Mosaic for a cool fusion meal), and the increase in housing stock here claims to be responsible for St. Louis’s first population census increase since the 1950’s, hence- a success in my book.
Laclede’s Landing- not so much home to any real residents, I still claim it as a neighborhood- because it certainly has its own personality. The Landing sits alongside the riverfront- and its cobblestone streets are no doubt among the first laid in this city. Now, it is home to entertaining the regions bachalaurette parties, local radio stations broadcast from these clubs, and the riverboat casinos are busy leaching off the money of the weak. Nevertheless, it does retain some amount of charm. It is easy to walk into after a day on the arch grounds, and has some cool eateries, such as the St. Louis Spaghetti Factory- locally known as the “old spaghetti factory”.
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