Massive Mexico City, Lucha Libre, and Swine Flu

Mexico City, before I knew it was infested with Swine Flu, I had a grand old time exploring this massive city. Some say its the largest in the world, although since, I have had a tough time distinguishing, as the numbers and counting methods vary. Tokyo and Seoul the main contenders, fyi.

Riding the subway system, was comparable to NYC, only with more frequent trains, and maybe a slightly easier to understand system map, and slightly more confusing transfers. If your polished up on your Spanish, and have no problems following signs, and can deal with some rudeness during the boarding process then, I highly recommend this economical way of getting through the city. Another interesting part of the system was that the first 2 cars of each train were reserved for women and children only during rush hours. Can you imagine trying to pass such a concept in the US?

The two highlights of the trip though, must have been Lucha Libre and the Bosque de Cheputepec park.

I knew I only had a few days in this mega-city, so I would have to choose a few things and do them all out. Well, my first night in town was a Friday, and it didn't take me long to find some friends at the hostel willing to witness some outrageous wrestling madness that is called Lucha Libre. We rode the train to within a few blocks of the "stadium", which, as it turns out, is more like an old hollowed out warehouse retrofitted with some stands and a ring. Our first obstacle was the security at the door, which was surprisingly thorough- I guess the Lucha fans can get a bit roudy.?.?.. I was first in line, and right away I had problems- he found my camera. Of course, I wasn't aware it was not allowed...what was I going to steal the soul of the match, or reveal their hidden trade secrets by taking pictures??? I didn't get it, but I sure as hell wasn't handing my camera over to some dude in exchange for a ticket, which I was supposed to use later to retrieve the camera. We stepped back, hid the cameras in socks, and belts ect., and most of us got through...except me. I still had a huge knife stuck in my belt! Ooops! I had totally forgot, the guy looked at me like I was going to murder someone, and I just sort of shrugged- like "oh yeah, the knife..." He took it away, and I gladly accepted the retrieval ticket for this oversight. What can I say, it was my first night in town, its just a precaution.

Upon entry we find the match already happening. It is usually a 2 on 2 match, and their is a small official cheering section for the "good guys", but inevitably, some of the bad seeds in the crowd will continuously cheer on the "bad guys"...bad seeds... :) Funny though, the good guys did not always win. Anyway, the matches were incredibly scripted, but the crowd (including us) loved it. A few 24 oz beers later, and the action became really fun. Soon, a female on female match came out of nowhere, and later a midget wearing a gorilla costume was part of a trio of fighters! The later it became the better, bigger, and more extravagant the matches got.

As we left the stadium and recovered our things from the holding booth, we were amazed to find them in tact. I got my knife back, and a friend who got caught taking pictures inside also got his camera back. But it was about 11 pm now, and it didn't take us long to figure out the dynamic outside had changed. We weren't feeling 100% safe, and debated if the train, which was closing soon, or a taxi would be the better return option. We opted for the train, and had a relatively uneventful ride home, except for some random guy telling us that he hated us because we were Americans. Oh well...we got home safe.

I continued to follow this rule, and never stayed out past 10 or 11 pm, it always started to feel unsafe.

The Bosque de Chalputepec park I went to really does deserve some mention. Honestly, I think it was the coolest city park I have ever been to. Cooler, dare I say, than Central Park in NYC. It was easily accessed via subway, and once arrived, you were greeted by statues and old growth trees shading a walkable, plant less, and sometimes paved undergrowth. It housed some of Mexico Cities nicest Museums, including the Anthropology Museum- which has a ton of ancient artifacts from the Myans, Aztecs, and other tribes from region of Mexico. A highlight was the life size replicas of an ancient Myan town grown in with vegetation you really felt like you were walking through the old city.

The park also featured the Museums of Modern Art, Contemporary Art, History, Botanical Gardens, free bike rentals, plenty of space to play and relax, plenty of interesting DF (districo federal) residents to watch, and plenty of vendors to satisfy your occasional appetite. It was truly my favorite place in Mexico City. Then again, I left before I could discover Palanco. A neighborhood next to the park, which I would like to go back and see.

Unfortunately, the plan to return has been scratched. Over the weekend, new has been released that a deadly Swine Flu is spreading through the world, and has its origins traced back to Mexico City. The place I need to fly out of tomorrow! So far, I think 127 people have died, and there are already 20 confirmed cases in the US. Indeed today, even people here in San Miguel began wearing face masks to prevent infection. The CDC is recommending wearing that, along with using hand sanitizer. I'm on my way now to buy both, and I hope I can managed to get home well.

My Last Post

Yup, the trip is now complete- and I think this will be my last post. So, first I want to say sorry to all of you out there that have at one point or another, wasted some valuable company time reading my blog...but- thankfully- March Madness can now take its place. :) But, also- to those same people- a deeply felt thank you. I'm really glad that people took an interest in the blog, and although it was always intended as a type of electronic journal for myself (so that when I'm old and can't remember my own name, at least I'll still have some stories!), it was encouraging to hear the comments on my adventures and it kept me returning to the blog to write more.

All that aside, I want to briefly mention the swirling worlds of emotions that I have gone through the last days of my trip. So strange, the emotions were...that I'm actually a bit reluctant to share the whole intensity of them to the world....nevertheless, here is the snapshot. It has really been a strange experience...leaving, that is. Actually, when I was leaving Buenos Aries (the start of my long journey home)..for the first time in several months, I really truly felt sad, but the sadness was mixed. It was combined with a strong sense of accomplishment, and pride. This trifecto emotion is a new one for me- and thus I thought worth mentioning. I'm not sure really if the sadness was leaving the people who I met along the way- some of whom I would have liked to get to know better- leaving places, ending a trip that I felt could have lasted a lifetime, or just the overall ending of what at one time, seemed such a monumental decision in my life. More and more I pondered the revelations of my trip...searching for super cosmic discoveries....but of course there were not many. At least none that would surprise you. I of course, have a truckload of new memories, fun stories, and amazing pictures! Mainly, though- I think I'm taking away a new sense of openness. To everything. The world feels open to me now, and the fear of going new places, is utterly lost.

In fact, along the way...and now...I have come to the same conclusion that I have in every sales job I have ever had. The question people like to ask is, so what is it like selling to 'xyz' type of person? (the same question applies to people in "xzy" country) As if they are some type of foreign species...they are not- we are all just people. And many of us have very similar wants, needs, and desires in this world. If you understand that, you can relate to anyone on the planet. And, when you can relate to people, everyone feels better. In fact, I've become relatively comfortable with people staring at me because I look different, or talking my broken Spanish to people who are making fun of me...I think these skills may help me down the road.

There is one thing that scares me though. The travelers plague that all of us carry in common...we are all forever planning our next trip. I will freely admit, that more than some thought has already gone into my next adventure. But, the question then really becomes, how do you sustain this type of lifestyle? what type of career will allow for it??? And, is that what you want to do?? ...all good questions...

My next adventure, I believe, will be starting my own business. A tough one indeed...but I think I'm ready for the challenge, and seeing people living through the rest of the world with virtually nothing has taught me that life will go on...no matter what number I see in my 401k. The fear of loosing it all, although not completely absent, has subsided in me for now. I think, having the nerve to risk it all for something you believe in is an important quality for an entrepreneur.

For now, though- I will enjoy being home, close to family and friends....and try to decide what that new venture will exactly be.

Once, again- thank you to all who were readers.

Last Night Out

What a great last night in Buenos Aries...and sort of all S. America. Today, I officially start the long, long, long journey home. And I must say, I am ready, and excited to see family and friends. But, it just so happened that my last night here was also St. Patrick's Day- and I was invited to a great party to celebrate the holiday, and a birthday.



It was dinner and drinks at an apartment in San Telmo, then out to the Irish pubs and street festivals afterwards. I opted to step up the standard wine gift, and bring a bottle of rum and coke....it was a bad decision. When I arrived, I quickly realized I was going to be the only guy there, which was just fine with me. Especially since the rest of the company where about 20 Norwegian girls, all who spoke great English...sweet! I always feel a bit of trepidation when surrounded by a gang of the opposite sex...but they made me feel amazingly comfortable, going out of their way to speak English around me. I was really grateful. And, I was honored to be a part of their birthday celebration. Eventually a few more guys showed up, and more girls...and then the police.



Yup, good ole B.A.P.D. came a knocking. As always, someone invitingly opened up the door, and they walked right in, looking for the tenet of the building. Immediately they snatched up here passport, and started threatening to take her to jail. Of course, everyone was mildly freaking out, until we got a number out of him. That is, the amount of money it would take to pay the 'ticket' and just break up the party. The amount was about 60 dollars, but someone smartly called the landlord, who also happened to be the Spanish teacher of the Norwegian girls. He swept in to the rescue, worked things out with the police, and everyone went on our merry ways.

Our merry ways took us to the street festival, which...quite frankly, did not do St. Patrick's day justice. Maybe I'm spoiled after Chicago's yearly festivities (which I spent a lot of time talking up down here) but either way, I was not impressed. A good start would have been beer and portable toilets...but apparently that was too much to ask. Not long after we arrived, the group split up a bit and some of us ended up at a bar called the Red Door, Ironically a bar that I had already been to on my previous trip. Most importantly though, they had drinks and elbow room...as well as a really cool atmosphere. The night went on, and fun was had by all...especially now well lubricated with alcohol-as a proper St. Pats should be spent! :)

Today, I am meeting a friend for lunch, then going to purchase some drugs from the pharmacy to gt me through the bus voyage, off to never never land! All in all, I couldn't have a had a better last night out.

Looking forward to seeing you all soon.

The Small Things

I've noticed my blogs becoming more and more about the bigger things on my trip. When I started it seemed like every little thing was worth writing home about, and as I went along and saw more and more amazing things, well, I guess I began to ignore the subtle pleasantries of my trip in my blog. This, though, I think is a bad thing. So, this blog is tribute to my latest subtle pleasantries.

My trip from Punta Del Este turned out to be really cool. I was never really that impressed with the beaches there, but then- 5 minutes outside of town we drive past this huge beach, lined with mansions, and a golf course on the other side of the road!! Where the hell was that! 5 minutes away...oh well, I´m willing to bet the people watching was better at my beach. (at least that's what I'm telling myself) The route to Montevideo followed the coast the whole way, and really the beaches are pretty nice, but the water is not. It is a river delta area, and the water is half salt half fresh...and well the water coming down river isn't the nicest - picture the Mississippi River entering into the Gulf at New Orleans. It turns the ocean a nice brown color closer to Montevideo. As we get closer to the city, huge mansions and embassies start showing up along the coastal road, along with running paths, and beach volleyball and soccer courts. Then suddenly a wall of mostly even height buildings, from the same long past architectural code, faces the coast as if it is a massive fort wall, and you know you are there. It is a cool sight, and the 2 hour ride flew by.

My other small, very guilty pleasantry, was Burger King. Yup, I confessed last time I ate at our fast food in Lima, well- I faltered again...and I loved it! I had not tasted BBQ sauce in a long time, then I sprang for the new western burger (or something like that) and had a sweet taste of home. I must say I really did enjoy it. I do feel terrible though, I had that terrific seafood restaurant, literally for the same price I could have had a huge piece of fresh fish and rice. But, I had eaten that for the last 4 nights....what can I say- I guess you can have too much of a good thing.

I´m back in Buenos Aries now, and ready for my long journey home. I have a bus ticket that leaves tomorrow for Lima, and then hoping on a plane heading for home. You don´t even want to know how long that bus ride is...but it will be my last for a while.....OK- just for shock value, its 72 hours. Yeah, that's right, 72. Wish me luck.

Punta del Este, Uruguay

Urugauy, where the hell is that?

Well, it just north of Argentina, and just south of Brazil, the capital is Montevideo, with just over 1 million people, it is recovering from a oppressive dictatorship- as most other countries I have visited here are-, the flag looks amazingly similar to Argentina´s, and I am here.

Punta del Este is a popular beach retreat for many of Buenos Aries´s elite (and of course other S. Americans), and you can see it everywhere here. There are Gucci and Prada, and Luis Vantan stores. They are selling luxory all over the place here...condos, fashion, food, and yatchs! The bad part...it is all expensive. But, it does make for fun window shopping- and given the weather lately here- I have been doing a lot of that!

Unfortunatly I have seen mostly rain, or at least partly rainy days. But, I resolved not to leave until I got a clear day. I was awarded from my wait yesterday by a perfect blue sky day. I went straight for the beach! I planned on getting some good beach time in in Rio, so this is my substitute. It is a sexy beach, but it can´t be quite as sexy as Rio. Nevertheless, there are plenty of small bathing suits, and a small, but happening nightlife.

All the waiting around, also had a good side effect. We found good resturaunts in town. In fact, by asking around a little and searching a bit, we fell upon a real small (4 tables) fish place off the beaten track. They were super friendly from the moment we stepped in, and, not really knowing what was on the menu (it is really hard to learn all the names of different fish, and cuts of meat in Spanish...I don´t even know them all in English!)...we setteled for the waiter/owner´s recomendation. All we told him is we wanted fish. Out came an impressively tasty fish...and a huge portion of it! It was so good, and only $8, that we came back the next night, with friends, and the next night again. I have eaten this insanly fresh fish every night but one I have been here. Last night it must have been a 20 oz. filet of Flounder...which was wonderful! But, the one night we did venture away from our new favorite, we went to a place called a parilla. Now, parilla, translated (I think) is BBQ. But this place wasn´t anything like a St. Louis style slab of ribs. No, more like half of a cow of hot sizzeling meat on a overflowing plate, served for a group. In our case, Alan and I shared the plate for 2....it could have fed 5 hungry men. Two types of suasages, 3 types of steaks, and then the fun stuff, grilled cow kidney, cow ears, intestine...you name it on the cow- it was grilled up and staring at us from the table. I think this one cost up $12 each, and it was quite the expierence. Of course, you muuuussttt try everything on the plate...at least once...I mean, it would be rude not to. .......lets just say, of the aforementioned wierdness ...the ear was my favorite... and it wasn´t good. But, overall, the dinner was great. Definitly worth the 12 bucks!

Also, another unforseen side effect of the storms, are great sunsets. The rain has somehow stopped at sunset time every day, and the sun peaking through from behind the storm clouds, over the ocean, and setting behind an island off in the distance makes for some pretty cool senery, and is an excellent way to wind down the day (you know the stressfull life of a traveler! :)....you really need to wind down. :)

Lastly the nightlife...for some reason, I tend to go out more in these smaller towns. I´m not sure if it is from boredom, or if I just feel safer here, and am more likely to go out and have some drinks...whatever the reason, it seems to be true. Last night, I went out with some new friends from the hostel (standard hosteling practice) to a place called Moby Dick´s Pub. Funny I thought, since I am reading Moby Dick at the moment, and realizing how many refrences of names familiar to me there are from the book. Pequods is the name of the boat in the book- also a pizza resturaunt in Chicago. Mr. Starbuck, is the chief mate on the boat- any refrence to the popular coffee shop?? Now this place...wierd...But, anyway--the place was packed with partiers, I´m not sure from where these people came, but they were there, and carrying on the tradition of the Argentines- we partied late. I´m not sure if the place ever closes, but when we saw the sun coming up over the ocean...we thought maybe that is a good cue to head home. Good times.

All is well, and I plan next to head back to Buenos Aries (which I am more and more excited about every moment) and then make the long journey home. Closing up the trip I am filled with thoughts and reflections, but that will wait for a later time. I hope all is well at home...and I hope to see all of you soon.

Trouble at the Embassy

Well, everything was going to plan, I was moving quick- and on track to hit all of my planned destinations. I was in Buenos Aries, and on my way up to Rio via Uruguay.

I went to the embassy to find out what I needed to get my visa in order to visit Brazil while I was in Buenos Aries. I showed up at 1:15 on Monday, and of course, the office closed at 1. So, suffering my first set back, I left with the name of the website to look up the materials needed for my visa.

For the record, many people do not need visas for Brazil, just Americans, and a hand full of other countries. It was rumored to cost somewhere between 100- and 150 dollars, and take two days to get. Hence the urgency, since I only have about 10 days left on my trip now.

But, I had a new, cunning plan. There was another embassy in Montevideo, the capital city of Uruguay that I would have to pass through anyway. So, we took the morning cruise, across the ocean/ river delta to Montevideo from Buenos Aries, the ride took 3 hours, and it was fun- sort of a mini cruise ship type of thing. I went straight to the embassy, only to find out that my ticket to leave South America from Lima wasn't good enough proof that I was going to leave Brazil. I needed a specific ticket into, and out of Brazil. Also, the time frame changed, now it was anywhere from 2-10 days it would take to get the visa. Meanwhile, they have your passport and you can not go anywhere.

I thought about it long and hard. The cheapest bus ticket I could buy round trip was $132, just to have something to show them, I knew I wouldn't actually be taking that bus, and I also knew that I had a slim to none chance of getting a refund if I didn't use it. Next option? Planes. I was already considering, or planning rather, on buying a plane ticket from Rio to Lima given my time crunch. I knew it would be about $500, but I was willing to take the hit. Now however, those flights were $750 for some reason, and a ticket from Montevideo was about $260. The hitch here is, everything you are planning, and buying, is depending on some woman behind a desk, who really didn't look to happy to give me a visa, and would not assure me of any sort of time frame besides 2-10 days for the visa. I needed to have the visa in 4 days maximum, after that, I would be paying all this for a whole of 2 days in Rio. And, if I bought my flight and then didn't get my visa in time for my flight...then what??

Bottom line, $1,000 was too much to gamble on this disgruntled old woman. I wish I could have made it...but hey, I´m in Punta del Este, Uruguay...I guess I will just have some more time at the beach!

My Time in Buenos Aries

Its my last day here in Buenos Aries, and I feel the need to transcribe the last few days before I move on; they have been jam packed with activities and events.

First of all, Buenos Aries is a real ´big´ city- with somewhere around 13 million ´potreños´, the city has wide avenues for streets. The widest of these is the street my hostel is on. It has ten lanes of traffic, on each side! 7 lanes each are the middle lanes, then each has a 3 lane side street separated by a friendly strip of grass and trees. This still operates like a normal street though, you can still make left hand turns, and there are stop lights at every intersection. Walking across this avenue sometimes takes 3 light changes!

Coming into the city was easy on a flight, the domestic airport I flew into was nice and clean- but after trying our first 5 hostels looking for a place to call home for our stay, we were getting a bit frustrated with everything being booked up. It is hot here....really hot, and humid! And carrying around your huge backpack, trying to follow a map around a foreign city, looking for hostels, is not so much fun- and also probably a bit unsafe. But, alas- we found one! Albeit without air conditioning...and on top of the busiest road in town...its OK- a place to stay.

Immediately I began exploring the neighborhoods. We are near the central part of town, and there is terrific old french style architecture everywhere. Also lining the streets, are coffee shops and restaurants. Clearly, the culinary attraction of this town is one of its highlights. It is known for its steak and wine...and I have eaten steak, and drank wine every night I have been here- its great! Last night, we went to a steak spot in the new neighborhood of puerto moderno, an old port that has been remodeled into shopping and condo´s. It was all you can eat steak, prepared however you want it (but they prefer to serve rare) salad bar, dessert, and a bottle of wine for each person! All for about 17 dollars. It was great time. There are many of these all you can eat steak places...and they are usually all pretty good. They definitely take pride in their food- which I am loving!

I have also visited the edgy, but colorful, barrio of La Boca...or the mouth. It is also by the ocean, and has a port where all goods and people once traveled through to enter the city. Nowadays the ´hood is famous for housing its famous soccer team, Boca Jr., and its stadium- which is said to hold 200,000 people. Also, near the water, most homes are painted vivid, lively colors, which has created a fun sight for tourist, and good pictures. As much as the people here love their steaks and wine, they also love their soccer. Being here to experience the culture, a game here was a must! Luckily, there was match coming up, and with two teams from Buenos Aries, the Hurricanes, vs. the legendary Boca Jr. club. Getting in was not easy, and it took us two trips to the stadium, conversations with many of the locals, and finally paying off two disabled people- who apparently have some sort of government card that allows them entrance into all of the events at the stadium- to finally get in. We never actually got tickets, which were apparently sold out, but we were in, and that was all that mattered. Each team had a crazy cheering section behind their goals. They cheered throughout the entire match, often trying to silence the other team by getting louder. It was great fun, the home team won, and we saw some great goals. Nothing bad was going to happen, as the police were out in force! On one side of the stadium an entire empty section, lined by guards separated the fans from the two opposing teams, and on the other, a tall fence with barbed wire at the top! And in fact, the craziest the fans got, was when a player received a red card and was thrown out of the game! Good times.

Other highlights have been, strolling through San Telmo on Sunday, where there was the coolest antiques fair I have ever been to. They had huge marble roman sculptures that were really cool. Tango dancers performing in the street, artist painting artwork on the street, and musicians, almost every 50 feet playing a different tune. It was impossible to be bored there.

Also, an elite graveyard is definitely on the list of things to see here. I know it sounds a bit weird- but these grave sites are works of art. Huge marble and granite structures with religious statues at the top adorn these mostly great military personnel, or high achieving doctors. Even Evita is buried here! All of BA´s most beloved citizens rest in luxury here. A very interesting sight.

This may go with out saying, but BA is a huge party town, and everything starts late here, and ends even later. The nightly party schedule goes something like this. You go out to dinner, (obviously a steak house) at around 9 and stay until about midnight. Then go to a friends house for a few drinks before leaving for a nightclub at about 2 am. They don't usually open before 1, at the earliest...then you stay out, dancing to your favorite music all night long. These places don´t close until 10 am...so, you pretty much just hang in there as long as you can, then sleep it off the next day! Nothing really gets started and opened until noon the next day!

Overall this is just a cool big city. It has it all, a fast, convenient and cheap subway system, a hundred cool neighborhoods to check out, great parks, sexy tango, good music, old school cafes (the oldest is 150+ years), and great restaurants. All for a fraction of the price. I like Buenos Aries, and I´m so glad I finally made it here.

Tomorrow I head north, to Uruguay, and Punta Del Este, which is supposed to be one of the nicest beaches in South America...I´m excited.

El Calafate, Argentina

I had another great trip yesterday. Armed and ready for the usual steady, slow, and generally uncomfortable bus ride in South America, I left Puerto Natales, Chile- aiming for El Calafate, Argentina. El Calafate is just a 5 hour bus ride away. Both towns are in Patagonia, and are not that geographically far from each other, but you add traveling over dirt roads, then throw in a boarder crossing, and pow- you have a 5 hour journey.

Usually I am dreading these rides, but this one turned out to be a great one. Not just because I had two seats to myself, but also...and principally because, we were traveling through the great Patagonian landscape at sunset. In the mountains, I never had a great view of the sun set. But now we were out in the wide open...and man is it wide open!-picture Kansas corn fields....but much colder, and with out people, or farms. And I can´t help dreaming about living out here, or imagine what type of life you could actually live off this land if you needed to. I saw the occasional rabbit off the road, but other than that...I´m not sure much lives out here, and if they do, I don´t know where. It is definitely pure wilderness out here. Which again means a pretty desolate landscape, just some yellow gold grasses, and the occasional grey-blue-green shrubs...and you've got the picture. But today, this night- the sky was lit up into amazing colors reflecting off of perfectly placed sweeping clouds as the sun set behind some distant mountains. In the other side of the sky, was the moon! Not just that shadow of the moon you sometimes see when the sun is still up, this moon was fully lit and shinning bright! It created really interesting light outside, and I really wanted to ask the driver to stop so I could take pictures! But I held back. The reflection of this light onto the gold yellow grasses was really cool. But soon it was totally night, and not long after came a town in the distance.

Arriving into El Calafate, was like pulling into a new kind of world. Apart from the ski resort at the boarder crossing, and a small mining town near the boarder, I had not seen anything in Argentina, except the landscape. Well, El Calafate is sure a different place than Puerto Natales. El Calafate is exploding!! They call it a ´new´town. Which means, they somehow are just realizing that this amazing glacier here, Perito Moreno, is a major tourist attraction, and Argentine´s are moving here in droves. New hotels are up and running, and I swear to god this place feels like summit county in Colorado. The main street that is emerging has potential to be as charming as the one in Breckenridge. There are many shops catering to the rich, and even a grand new casino right on the main street!! The street lights are wired up and running, in spots beyond the city, where there are not even streets yet. This place is expecting growth. Very interesting how two towns, so close, only across a boarder from each other, can be so dramatically different. So much so, that I thought it worth a blog.

This afternoon, I fly to Buenos Aries- a city I fantasized much about during the rough Chicago winters of past. I am soooo excited!! :)

Patagonia

What a cool place..I mean that literally, its cold down here! Every trek I have been on, every mountain climbed, came with its weather worries. At Huyana Patosi, in Bolivia it was snow, it just so happened that we were dumped on the night before we summitted, and during the climb as well. In Peru, at both Machu Pichu and the Santa Cruz trek in Huraz, it was rain. Leaking tents, and consistent rain each day made for a lethal combination.

In Patagonia, its wind. There have been reports of people actually being blown off the side of a the trail to fall to their deaths. Specifically, from our information session, the leader spoke of a time when someone was breaking down their tent, a big gust of wind came, he or she held on, and it took them 20 feet off the ground. It is serious stuff, and you need to prepare accordingly. Indeed, the day we checked into Torres de Plaines national park, the forecast called for 85 km/hr winds that day, and 75 the next. I don´t know how many miles an hour that is, but I can tell you from experience, it is a lot!

A truly action packed hike, there were highlights on everyday of the trip. The first big one was glacier grey, situated just above lake grey, we spent the day fighting the wind for a campsite shouldering the glacier. Just a 5 hour hike ahead, this would be our easiest day, and fittingly so since your packs are the heaviest at the beginning. On the way, we were gifted with the sights of many icebergs floating along in the grey lake, and when we finally got our close up encounter with glacier grey...well it was breathtaking. First of all, at the shear size of this thing, but later at its intricate beauty. It looked like a chef had chopped and diced up some onions, then froze them together, adding blue food coloring, and then sprinkling some pepper on top of it all. Some of the slices had intense blue color, it was really cool. And you could almost feel the pressure and impact this giant piece of ice was having on the area. Can you imagine the amount of pressure that this thing had?? several miles long (as far as I could see) and maybe 50 ft high at its base (again where I could see)....that has to be thousands of tons of ice moving down the mountainside! Oh, and did I mention the effect on the weather?? Because, yes, it has one. This is part of the 3rd largest ice shelf in the world, and it impacts the climate all over the world...making it colder of course, so, can you imagine sleeping next to it?? It was a cold night.

But, we were happy to be seeing it, and ate up every minute of the 15 hours of sunlight this place offers. Once we managed to crawl out of our sleeping bags the next day, we realized we had slept in, and were now on the clock to make it to our next campsite. The whole trek was in the shape of a W and waking on the first morning we were at the top of the first point of the W, the goal was to make it to the next top point for camp that night, then again at the final top for the last. Day two was spent hiking up the ¨French Vally¨which was equally amazing. It offered high mountain peaks, literally surrounding you. Meanwhile, you walk through this lush valley occupied by dense forest one minute, then a rock scape remaining from a landslide the next. It was constantly changing. In fact, we saw at least 5 giant pieces of glacier break off from the mountains above to come crashing down the mountainside...usually landing on other glaciers. Again, I couldn't stop thinking about how cool this place is, and how many of my friends and family would love this spot as well.

But Allan was struggling. He has made all of the aforementioned treks with me, and always dealt with some pain in his knees, which he knows are bad. But this time it was getting the best of him. Each step was getting more painful, and he knew that for everyone he went up, he would have to get down the next day...the real tough part on the knees. The next day, after a trying 7 hour hike, and getting down the valley we had previously conquered...he was ready to call it a day. I don´t blame him, especially since the park offers ´refugios´along the way where they are serving people nice dinners with wine and coffee and cake...and all inside a heated cabin. These were tough to walk by on the trail and pass up. But, I always felt more hard core camping and cooking outside on my own...that, I feel, is a more realistic outdoors experience. But, to each their own.

He went in, and I went up. The last day, was easily the longest. I spent a solid 10 hours of hiking that day, but I had to make it to a certain point. Specifically, the Torres Campsite. The Torres, (or towers in English) were what everyone visited the park for. They are 3 amazingly unusual tall skinny mountain peaks sticking out of this already unique mountain range- giving it its namesake Torres de Plaines, or Towers of the Plains. You see, Patagonia is normally a flat place, this park is really the exception more than the rule. Usually it is long plains filled with grasses, shrubs...and wind! What makes these 3 towers even more special though, is that at sunrise, when the lighting is just right, they light up like the red rocks in southern Utah, or Arizona- you picture this among the snow sitting at their base, and the blue grey lake below that, and you truly have a terrific feast for the eyes.

This was the goal. Now, you can´t do anything about the weather, but- I´m going to be damn sure I will be up there at sunrise- just in case I luck out and see the unforgettable. The idea then, is to get to the closest campsite (Torres Campsite) so that your hiking in the dark early the next morning is minimized. Trying to adhere to this plan is now difficult, I have lost my travel companion, which now means I am carrying the whole tent and all of the food myself. The hardest day of the trip isn't usually when you need to add 5 or 10 pounds to your pack. Determined as I was though, I made it to the camp around 8:30, I had been hiking for 9 and a half hours...and made it in an hour before sunset. I quickly set up my tent and prepared supper...pasta...of course. But I knew I would need to wake up at 5 am to get there in time for the 7 o´clock sunrise. I was so excited I could hardly sleep!

Up and about at 4:45, I was out and hiking, alone, and with only my headlamp to light the way...I was reveling in the adventure of it all. Around each corner I questioned my step, and every trail marker I found was a small triumph. Crossing rivers on makeshift tree-trunk bridges was of specific adventure in the dark. However, after 30 minutes or so of this, when I am really starting to question where the hell I am going...I catch a glimpse of some other headlamps in the distance behind me. A bit disappointed, I immediately set out at a highlighted pace...no one is catching me!! But, a bit later, I see someone getting close...so I wait up, hoping to talk when he or she gets close. It was another American! He was from Montana, and luckily this was his third time up (so he knew where the hell he was going), and his third attempt at seeing a good sunrise...he first two were unlucky. The accent started, and didn't stop for an hour- at least, and after he realized I was going to keep up with him, he slowed his pace just a little. We ended up passing quite a few people together (turns out I was not the first one awake). And later, as we were getting towards the top, I passed him up. I was the first one to the view point, and the sun was just peaking out from the eastern sky. I looked back down the rocky mountain trail, and noticed an army of headlamps coming my way. Oh great, here comes another Machu Pichu I thought, but it wasn't as bad. There were maybe 50 of us up there, and we were rewarded with a great sunrise.

The towers were indeed illuminated with a fiery dark red, amongst a dark dark grey blue sky...it was a wonderful sight, but it didn't last long. Many, including me, were waiting for it to get better, when I looked the other way to take in the beauty of the actual sunrise, I looked back, and the towers were grey. They turned to stone! OK, they were already stone, but for a minute they looked different, and if you weren't looking, or didn't make it up in time, then you are SOL! I did manage a few good pictures though. Especially good, are the ones of me, bundled into my sleeping bag, using my fleece bag as a giant scarf, freezing my ass off waiting for this sunrise! That, in fact, this along with the lone star nighttime hike, were my favorite moments of this trip. Alone, in my bag, fighting off the cold winds, and waiting for the sight of a lifetime.

I came down, and rubbed it in as much as I could to Allan...but he wasn't having it...going on simply wasn't an option for him. I feel bad he missed out, but I took some good photos for him...and you, to see!

Now, I am enjoying the wonderful small town of Puerto Natales. Deep into Patagonia, they feel pride to their area, not necessarily always for Chile. They sell fresh clams on the street here, 20 clams for a dollar, but otherwise the town is expensive for its size. There are a lot of tourist here, and the cold windy streets cater to our needs. I leave here tonight, making a probably slow journey north to Buenos Aries. Until then, Choa!

If Not at First, Try Try Again...

Second Atempt....mission accomplished

Booking through the hostel seems to be the much more reliable way to book q winery tour. I woke up early, knowing that I wanted to get to a winery today. When I approached the woman working the desk here she told me that it would be ok...then I pushed her, and got to two wineries tours out of her! Yes, that means I'ma little tipsy right now : ) But that is a good thing!!! This is my first winery tour/sampling expiernece, and it was everything I expected.

I had two recservations, and the travel inclulded the subway/metro, bus, and taxi. I was metally preparred for this challenge. I went solo, and managed well. The trains here are amazingly clean and frequent. I seriously think the subway comes every 90 seconds...or maybe less. A couple of transfers later, I find a couple from Germany looking for the same winery I am and we share a cab/colectivo to the winery.

Te first winery was an absolute charmer. It has been in the same famliy for 350 years. Starting with grapes from France, and aging the wine in American Oak barrles. The cellars were incredible, and full of character. Unfortunatly, the wine did not reflect the magnificent charactor of the winyard. Many tasters were not impressed. So, I decided to wait untill later for my gift purchase.

Next was the winyard Concha y Torro, a winery that exports all over the world, I thought this would be a good place to buy the gifts I owed folks back home. And, although the tour was somewhat lackluster, the wine proved to be remarkable. I tasted the complementary glasses on the tour, and then opted for the 4 addition samples at the end....which later turned into 5. I finally decided on the bottles I wanted...whith much help from a couple from NYC, and Rio de Janeiro and I was ready to buy and be on my way.

Pointing to the store, the bartender directed me towards the place where I could buy bottles of wine. Now, however, I had a bit of a problem. I needed to get several bottels of wine back to the states. And, well, I took the subway and the bus here...you get the idea. Picture yourself with 12 bottles of wine ridding the local bus.?.?

I obviously wanted a discount. Everything is negotiable in South America, and just because the bottles had price tags on them, that wasn't going to stop me...especially when I was buying a whole lot of them! Unfortunatly, the girl at the check out drove a hard bargin. I had become friends with the girld finding me the wine...but that wasn't the one checking me out. (god if I had a penny for everytime I made this mistake in sales...)

I asked her for 20%...a good discount, I thought- rellizing it was a bit too much.

She asked for my hat.

OK- now this is serious. Any guy out there knows that a hat that really feels right, is a priceless one. And I had just bought a beauty. A really cool sombrero type that I truly thought was going to make it through with me to the other side (US).

We finally setteled on 15%...which ended up being twice what I paid for the hat...so I guess I am happy about it. Now, the American thing to do would have been give the hat back to me at the last minute and all have a big laugh....and I really held onto that belief, until she pointed me out the door and down the street....then I relized I really just sold my hat...damn I miss that hat!

Bottom line, I finally got my gifts, tried some great Chilean wine, and gave up a great hat in the process....I hope its worth it!

Sunset of a Lifetime

Going from Oruro, just outside of La Paz, to Uyuni, the town where we started our salt flat tour...we were blessed with the most amazing sunset I have ever seen. The ride started just before sunset, and the first 30 minutes were beautiful. So, what does the most amazing sunset of my lifetime look like?? The perscription goes something like this...

The sky- a million shades of pink, reds, purples, and blues. Then sprinkle in perfect mountain skyline, that the sun is now hiding behind. Paint on some sweeping clouds accross the entire sky, perfectly appointed so that the sun can still reflect its glory for a few more minutes. Now, you are on a perfectly flat portion of desert land, maybe 10 miles of it before you reach the mountain silouettes. This is good. But, it rained last night- and these flat lands are now transformed into a giant shallow lake reflecting all of the greatness in the sky onto the land. Giant pink flamingos are feasting happily at the delight of the water and all it supplies. There are thousands of them. Many are flying almost in synch with the train, now moving at a steady pace. It seemed the perfect harmony of nature. And although it may have only lasted 30 minutes, it is a memory of a lifetime for me.

South American Business

I guess I have met people along the way who are working and living permanatly down here. But, most are in the tourism business. They are the hippie type who wanted to get away, and are happy running their returaunt, hostel, or worse...a suvaneer shop on the street.

However, I met my first ones where moving here. A group of 3 young guys from London, who recently lost thier jobs with Merril Lynch, joined a new start up investment company. They are here in Santiago for two weeks of training, and then off to Rio de Janeiro, where the will face the challenge of starting up an office there. A bold move, no doubt. Even they seem quite unsure about the outcome. But, I have been wondering, how bad does the economy have to get at home, before people start looking for opportunities elsewhere.

I guess I have my answer.

A Failed Attempt

Not everything goes smoothly while traveling. In fact, rarely do things go smoothly, but I was confident when my new friend from Santiago offered to accompany us to the winery region that the trip would go off without a hitch. She made some phone calls and found out the best winery in town (an hour and a half away) to visit- then we checked out the website and everything looked legitimate, so we headed off.

When we got there, after an hour and a half in 90 degree weather on a bus without air conditioning, I was a little on edge. But, I knew that great wine and food awaited...so that kept my spirits up. Then, when the driver droped us off on the side of the highway, about a half mile past the winery, I was a little perplexed- I mean ok, I see the winery from here- but how are we supposed to find a ride home??-, but hey, a little walking never hurt anyone.

45 minutes later we reach the gate of the winery. I´m sorry, he said, the last (and only) tour was at 5. It was 5:35. We were 3 people. I let the local do the negotiating. At this point, I was in disbelief. We just walked through grapes that looked delicious for the last half an hour, and now you are telling me we cant come in?? No, not even to buy a bottle for the raod. We turned around, tails between the legs, and my new local friend appoligizing franatically.

We finally made it back to the highway, where we flagged down a bus back to Santiago. Not exactly how I planned to spend the day, but these things happen in South America, and you just have to chalk it up as a learning expierence. What did I learn?? No one is a better planner than me. :)

Imediatly after we got back, I went to the mall (yes they have malls here!) for some retail therepy. I headed straight for the food court where I was in shock to find a Taco Bell!! I was so excited now...(I am admitedly addicted to the stuff at home, some days I ride through the drive through instead of going in, because I´m embarrased that I was just there the day before)...but this was one of those Pizza Hut- Taco Bell combo´s, and the menu was small, even if I couldn´t get my favorite dishes, I ate it up happily. Even found some new things that I want and don´t need at the mall (standard). Then I went back to the hostal smoked a cuban cigar poolside and drank a cold beer. It was about then that I relized, maybe this day wasn´t so bad after all.

Salt Flats- Bolivia

I really feel like I cant even begin to describe what I saw on my three day tour through southern Bolivia, and the salt flats, but I guess I will try.

the 'Salt Flats' is essentially an area in where an ancient salt lake existed, then dried up, leaving all the salt behind in a perfectly level and even distribution. It makes for some wicked vistas. And since there are no frames of refrence to the size of things, it is easy to fool the camera, and have fun with some goofy pictures- many of which I took. Essentially this is a photographers dream trip, everything was about the pictures...and I took a lot!

Over the three days, we saw an island that was filled with 1000 year old cacti. Volcanoes, ancient lava rocks that were frozen in the craziest shapes and forms. Huge rocks sticking out of nowhere in the middle of the dessert, snow capped mountains...that looked tempting to ski, beuatufilly colored lakes, most with giant pink flamingos, live creaters spewing and bubleing up hot sulfer dioxide, geysers, hot springs, and we even slept in a home made completely of salt.

We traversed this lanscape, that sometimes looked like Mars, in Toyota Landcruisers. This place was like the next life given to any fixed up Landcrusiers that exist in the world, they were all 10-20 years old, and lifted up, with big knotty tires, racks on top and brush guards in front with extra lights. They all carried extra fuel, and essentially relied on the driver if there were any problems. We had some problems with our fuel filter at a few points, and I actually saw our driver sucking gas out of a fuel line with his mouth, to clear the block. These guys are hard core! It felt like a Jeep Jamboree for Landcrusiers. Duddy you would have loved it, and I would be surprised if your old white one ends up down here somehow.

I'm not sure how to completely describe the sights of the trip. I will have to put my pictures up. I think some of them are framers!

First Impressions Count

My first night in Santiago...a blast!

I'm already liking this place, and despite many people telling me the city was an ugly place, and that the people were not nice- I have found the exact opposite true. I guess what is beautiful is different to everyone. I have been here only about 12 hours, but I have already seen so much!

In fact, as soon as we got into Chile, from Bolivia, things changed. All of a sudden there were nice paved roads, with guard rails!! and even run-away truck ramps like we have in the mountains in the states. It felt so familiar, for a moment I thought I was home. Those roads were a welcome change, especially since we spent the last 24 hours on them! Another thing, our bus actually left on time, and arrived on time...a concept that is lacking in Bolivia and Peru. This country has infrastructure, but you definitly pay for it, everything is more expensive here...really food and drinks are about the same as in Chicago, maybe 10-20% cheaper. The accomidation though is still quite a lot cheaper. My hostel here is 11 USD, compared to the average of 4-5 USD throughout Bolivia and Peru. But there is also business here, and money...not made from the Cocaine trade.

I went out to dinner with my friend Allan as soon as we got into town...we were ready to see something after that trip! We walked around our new neighborhood, its called bario brasil, and it is beautiful! Of course it comes with a central plaza, but its the streets, lined with trees, and the old decadent mansions that line the streets of this area that give it the charm. The streets are also lined with cool bars and resturaunts. We chose a cool sushi place for dinner, and everything went right from there on.

Two nice, chatty local girls sat at the table next to us. Eventually our conversations met, and soon after we were all having dinner together. They were well traveled themselves, and obviously well educated. Dinner was good, but not exceptional - as I have heard that Santiago has some amazing sea food...(yet to be discovered). But I was excited about one thing on the menu...Budwieser! I couldn't belive it...the first time in months that I have seen the stuff, obviously I started with that! The girls then told us about a concert they were going to later, and asked if we wanted to join. Obviously! It was unlike anything I have ever been to. Inside of a run down mansion, there was a stage set up on the second floor, in what might have been the great room, in from of a magnificent fire place. Lights were strung up above, and a makeshift bar in the next room served the drinks. It was an intimate show, maybe 30 people were there, there were tables and chairs for everyone to relax with the music, and the setting just made everything better. I went exploring through this 4 story masterpiece. Every room had a huge, ornate fireplace on one end, with terrific windows in every shape, at least those that still remained. I really enjoyed exploring, but when my new friend saw my amazement, she took me to the roof top, where a view of the city and the small plaza below awaited. It was all very cool. We even attended a small after party at our new friends apartment, and when we left she offered to show us the whole city while we are here!

I can't wait to see what else Santiago has in store for me, but I'm excited that I'm off to such a great start!

Pushing My Limits

Part of this trip for me is trying new things, that might be outside of my normal routine. The idea here is to discover new strenghts...and sometimes weaknesses.

When I arrived in Bolivia, my unplanned stop in South America. I knew that La Paz, where I am staying, is high up in the Andes. Its part of the reason I wanted to come. I do have a soft spot for mountains...and I also enjoy big cities. La Paz is the unoffical capital (don't ask me what that means) of Bolivia, it has about 1.5 million people, and it sits about 3,600 meters above sea level (11,800 ft.), beautifully setteled into a valley surounded by impressive Andes peaks. Natuarally when I hear they can be climbed, I am interested. One particularly impressive mountain is called Huayna Potosi. It is 6,088 meters up...thats about 19,968 ft. (really high). The 6,000 meter height is an important milestone for many acomplished climbers.

Of course, I readily sign up. After all, I have done 2 treks in Peru both summiting at around 4,600-4,700 meters...not exactly 6,000- but I figure I have a nice bit of aclimitizing and conditioning leading up to this. I also never had any real problems with the aformentioned treks with altitude sickness. So, I thought, maybe...I'm some sort of genetic freak and I have a body that can with stand low levels of oxygen. Its worth looking into, ...right?

Well, as it turns out- I am not a genetic freak that has some special power to function even with low levels of oxygen. ...I know, I was disapointed too.

It was an amazing ride, riddled with challenges along the way....here is the story of my climb.

I knew things were going to be different when myself, and three others from the hostel, went to suit up at the agency where we booked our trip. Included were crampon compatable plastic made boots, -10 below celcuis sleeping bags, gloves, headlamps, climbing harness, ski pants and jacket, crampons for the boots, and ice axes. It was going to get serious.

The first day was spent on a nearby glacier to the first basecamp, at 4,600 meters high (my previous high mark) where we geared up, and learned how to use our axes and crampons to climb vertical walls of ice, how to fall on your axe to save another climber who has fallen (and is tied to you), how to repell down these glaciers, walk on glaciers, proper jumping techiniques for going over cravasses in the glacier, and how to accend and decend step slopes. I had an absolute blast! It was like having a glacier in your backyard, someone give you all the gear...and say, "here ya go, have fun!" I mean, it was some instruction, but I just felt like a big kid the whole time playing around on this giant piece of foreign ice. One part I broke off and ate, you know, so I know what real "glacier" water tastes like...I guess its not helping global warming though. :(

It was only a 5 hour trek to the second base camp the next day, 5,200 meters (17,056 ft.). And everything seemed to be going to plan, I had my pack on- as usual in my previous treks- it was loaded up with my crampons and ice axe on the outside...it has never looked cooler. But then we started climbing...not just walking/treking, but on all fours going up the side of a mountain. The challenge was welcome, and all was well given the short distance that day. But now came the interesting part.

After dinner, served early, at 5 o'clock. We hit the sack. Sleeping in a cabin like structure on the mountain built to accomidate the climbers. It was quite comfortable...except for the fact that you needed to go to bed at 6 o'clock. Why? Well, because we leave at 1 am for the summit! Breakfast is at midnight! Needless to say, I couldn't sleep- and around 10 that night I started getting my first headache. It was too early for me to sleep, and its notoriously difficult to sleep at altitude anyway...so I got nothing. My first mistake...I was not in the best of moods at our midnight breakfast! So, just to clear this up, yes we are climbing about a 6,088 meter mountain in the dark. Why? (yes I asked) Its because when the sun comes out it can melt the snow on top of the glaciers making it unsafe to traverse. OK- fair enough. I will hike at night. But I couldn't see anything!- the fact that it was snowing wasn't helping. Thank god for that headlamp, the tracks in the snow, and the ropes that tied us all together as we accended...otherwise I wouldn't have made it 50 ft.

Our guide, as it turns out, is a slave driver! His pace is fast, at least for me- but he knows the pace we need to reach the summit. After the first 50 meter climb, one guide just told a hiker to go down, they weren't going to make it at that pace. We left 4 people at that 2nd base camp who stayed behind due to altitude illness. At least another 5 turned around on the mountain that day/night, including one girl who is mountain climbing guide in Turkey! After about 30 minutes, I get into the zone. And I later realize that 97% of what I see on the accent are foot prints in the snow, highlighted by my trusty headlamp. What can I say, I'm just focusing on putting one foot in front of the other. This is the primary thought in my mind for the next 9 hours. Despite asking for frecuent breath catching breaks, I do well for the first few hours. Hmmm, it might have something to do with the 800 mg of ibprofin that I took around 11 pm the night before...just a few hours ago now. But soon, the lack of sleep sets in. I get tired, and on the breaks I am closing my eyes, coming close to going into what could become a permenant sleep. I knew that I must have been really tired if I was falling asleep while climbing a mountain! This was my second sign. Next, came the dizzyness. When I started falling over for no reason, I knew it had to be the altitude that was getting to me. But, I pushed through, and as the obstacles became more involved, my alertness also increased. Or, it could have been the 60 mg of psuedoephedrine (Sudaphed) that I took to ward off the sleepyness.

Nevertheless, I was strugeling. And as we climbed, it got colder, and the snow intesified. We stopped for a break. I have no idea where we are, but I know I have about nothing left in me...and I was done waiting for someone else to cry for help, so I could quickly jump to their relief by agreeing to desend. As I am proclaiming my lack of juice left to my firends in the group...which is sort of the anti-christ thing to do on a climb like this (because you could sap the small amount of energy remaining in the group with your proclimation). Our guides speak up at the same time. Serving as the official translator for the group, they come to me to speak. By one guide we are 400 meters from the top, ...the other one later tells me 200 meters... and they are advising us to stop where we are. The snow has gotten to thick, seeing distance is small- which negates any possible views from the top, and the real kicker- if we continue we are in risk of causing an avalanche... not a good thing. The thing that struck me though, was the genuine fear of these two guides to go up- I had the feeling they were scared! When it was 400 meters, everyone was ready to heed our not-so-fearless leaders advice and start our decent (which I am ok with at this point). But, then the other guy chimed in and had to tell us it was only 200 meters. It just seemed so close...we had to try! Without much discussion, we were back in our lines, marching to our leaders beat. But soon, the climb became steep, and technical. It took us a hour to do the last 200 meters. But, we made it! All of us in our group. I was so out of it though, that I couldn't fully enjoy it until later.

After the summit, I was chosen to lead the group down. A difficult task! Especially when the tracks you had to guide you up are snowed over, and you cant see more than 30-40 feet in any direction. The trip down was interesting, my legs felt like rubber, and I mistepped many times, falling into the deep powder, or catching myself with my axe. We eventually made it down to the 2nd base camp just after 9 am. It took us 5 hours to reach the summit, and 2 hours down- with one more to go back to base camp 1. This all happened today, and I feel like it lasted a week!

All in all, I am glad that I have climbed Huayna Potosi, a great mountain that I can say I climbed, but definitly did not conquer. I seem to not be able to pass up a good mountain climb/trek on my South American adventure, and I hope the many summits will become a metaphore for my life when I return.

Dollar Rising...At Least in Bolivia!

I love it. One of the local "casa de cambio's" where you go to change your money, publishes its rates on a red ticker symbol outside of their shop. Each day my exchange rate is different, and lately it has been rising. You can't imagine how imeansly entertaining it is to watch your money become worth more overnight! When I got here in La Paz, Bolivia, the exchange rate for dollars was 7.03. Then a day later- up to 7.035, then to 7.04...and now its a whopping 7.045. I know it sounds miniscule (and it is). But for some strange reason, I love watching it.

By the way, things are rediculously cheap here. I'm currently sipping on a coke that I paid 4 Boliviano's for (less than 50 cents for 20 oz), my internet cafe is costing me 2 Boliviano's an hour...about 25 cents an hour, and my hostel costs 40 Boliviano'sa night...about $5.50.

I think part of the reason come from my deep confusion and intruige for the process. I mean, its no secret that the economy in America is in the gutter. So, people are out of work and not spending as much money, the government on the other hand, seems to be on a spending spree. One 700 billion dollar bailout/rescue after another, some say it won't be long before we could see a trillion dollar spending/stimulus plan.

The conection that I fail to make is- how does this add up to an increased value of the dollar? I do have one working theory that the economy of Bolivia is actually falling more quickly than America's...not sure though...its a working theory. :)

I'm sure someone can clear this up for me....but in the meantime, I will enjoy my quasi wall street ticker here in the casa de cambios in La Paz.

I Went to Bolivian Prison

Before I left, I told myself it would be a great trip if I just managed to stay out of 2 places. The hospital, and prison. I made an exception.

San Pedro Prison in La Paz, Bolivia is such an extremely wierd place that it has actually become a tourist attraction! I had to go! Paying off people to let you into the prison is the standard mode of operation. I know, its wierd, actually paying to go into prison....I haven't gone mad...just let me explain.

Officially the prison is off limits to tourist. So, you find a guy who knows a guy, who's cousins', ex-wife's, daughter was there at some point (you get the idea). We follow some lady into the prison who we met in the park outside. By the way, the park was lovely, and the prison sits right in downtown La Paz, prime real estate for this town, it was just a short walk from my hostel. Immediatly after passing the first set of gaurds she took us into a waiting cell, and closed the door. I was nervous, but she came back moments later with instructions. Go to the guard write your name and passport number, he will sign your arm for entry, and then go into prison, your guide Louis Fellipe will be waiting for you inside. We followed the instructions accordingly, and soon we were in prison.

That was the last I saw of any guard. This 'prison' is more like a neighborhood of criminals, who now get one free meal a day, at lunchtime. There are 8 neighborhoods in all. Some are upper class, and offer inmates/residents gardens, apartments with private baths, billards halls, day care facilities (inmates serving more than 5 years are allowed to have their spouses and children live with them, they can come and go from the prison as they please), resturaunts and bars, and public showers and suanas. On the other hand, there are the slums- where inmates sleep in glorified cardboard boxes. The prison has a set budget, and each week the presidents of the neighborhoods, or sections, get together and negotiate how their money will be sent. Structual improvements are often needed, since the building looks to date back a couple of hundred years.

The upside of having a prison that is lacking in structual soundness is, of course, the possibility of escape. In fact, just three days ago 5 prisoners escaped. How? Well, the formed the quite ingeneous plan to dig a hole through the prison wall....which is made of dried mud. It took them 2 months, and they planned to exit into a small wheeled cart selling goods on the street outside. Aparently all went well, they have not been caught.

Our 'guide' was actually a Portugeus guy, in for drug trafficing charges. He has been in for 8 months and not been to trial. As far as I'm concerned this guy may as well have been straight from Sicily...he was 100% mobster!, complete with the slicked back black hair and black sport coat. Admitedly guilty, he didn't want to be extradited- hopeing instead, to raise enough money in the prison to pay off the right people and be released. Back in Portugal, nobody the wiser. At the end of the tour he took us into what must have been one of the nicer cells, and had a sit down with us....to discuss his tip. Many other men were in the cell as well, including the entourage who followed us for the tour (all of whom I'm sure were getting a cut of what we paid) and some new gentelman, who I can only assume were the leaders of the section we were in. We gave him a 15 Boliviano tip ($2) and a pack of cigerettes. Thank him, he was gratified, and we were shown the door.

Lets see- what other crazy things am I missing here??, they have soccer tournaments. One section has a cement field, you pay more for a cell with a view of the action. Also, you are allowed to fix up your place. If your making enough money inside, you can build on an addition! All prisoners hold the keys to their own cells. You have the option to rent or buy a cell upon entry. And if you own, when you are released, you sell you 'cell' to whoever wants to buy it! Literally their were signs on the walls, just like in our cities, advertising real estate for sale.

Try to keep in mind that this is a prison! I'm walking around rapest, murderers and drug dealers, here. This is the only prison in La Paz, and anyone who has commited a crime here, ends up in this prison.

I think this was the most outrageous expierence of my trip thus far.

San Pedro Prison, La Paz.

I Made it, I´m in Bolivia!

I know, I know, its not some huge accomplishment. But, for some reason, I do feel a bit accomplished.

I finished Peru. I did everything I wanted to do there, and what a great country it is- I will definitly miss my time there, but I´m also excited about moving on. I went out for a ´last supper´last night before my bus left Cusco for La Paz. In retrospect, I was a bit too optimistic that it would be my last supper in Peru. But not careing yet, and under the assumption that I better spend all of my Peruvian money before I leave, I splurged. Went out for a full course dinner, with drinks along the way, I even went for the expresso and brownie with ice cream desert afterwards....which was amazing! The only thing missing was my corporate credit card, and the doctors I used to go out with for fancy dinners like this one. I couldn´t help but be nastalgic about that...I truely did enjoy that part of my job. One other difference though, this one cost me, about 16 dollars. Gotta love South America.

Well, half buzzed and fully cafinated, I caught my bus....which was, I thought, a direct bus to La Paz. We had two stops in the first few hours, one where we waited an hour and a half until we boarded a completely different bus. I was not the only one bamboozeled, many were angry. My fit earned me the front seat in the next bus with virtually no leg room, and right next to the noisy engine. This one took us, thankfully, to the boarder. Which was another obsticle, and, as it turns out- especially for Americans. I was forced to get a Visa at the boarder....which wasn´t a huge hassel, save of course for the 135 dollars they made me pay for it! In case you are wondering, yes that is an outrageous amount of money in Bolivia. And it just plain sucks that we (me and 2 other girls) were the only ones who had to pay it.

Sweet, I´m accross! It was actually a bit of a rush, I felt like I was doing something wrong...even though I wasn´t! We changed busses again, and somehow, every time we change- the bus gets a little worse....a little smaller, a little less room, with out air conditioning...ect. Passing by lake Titicaca was really a nice added bonus of the trip though. I think they label it as the largest lake that is as high in elevation as it. Ancient indeginous tribes actually lived on the lake...literally. They built islands out of reeds that could hold little villages, houses and all. I know, pretty cool. The islands still exist today...but mostly as tourist traps...which thankfully, I avoided. I did however, upon the next hurdle of the journey, crossing the lake, get to ride on a boat acrross the lake...and get some cool pictures along the way. The boat trip cost me 1.5 Bolivianos....which is somewhere in the neighborhood of about 20 cents! It was beautiful. And about 5 hours later, La Paz apeared as a sprawling, colorful city, nesteled in a valley with high towering, comanding, snow capped mountains keeping the city in its place. Rummor is you can climb some of those mountains...I might just decide to test myself, and see how much altitude this body can take....we will see.

I have checked into my hotel, and I am staying at the infamous Loki Hostel. It is famous for its parties. And seriously, this place is just like a huge co-ed frat house. There are 14 beds in my room...all full, and the hostel probably holds another 100 on top of that. It comes complete with a dvd room, for those who spend the night before in the bar- which is complete with 2 pool tables....it even has a oxygen bar! (they claim the worlds highest)....I´m starting to hear that about everything here (worlds highest...not sure which are ture?).

Bolivia was a country that I´m pretty sure I laughed at in Spanish class in college...I remember thinking, ´why the hell would I need to know anything about that place...its not like I´m going there anytime soon.´ And to be honest, I didn´t even want to come here until so many people told me so many great stories as I have been traveling. Now I have to see for myself, ohhh the irony. All in all, I´m excited to be in a new country and in a big city, and I know that Bolivia will provide me with some plesent surprises along the way.

The Machu Picchu Trek

I just returned from Machu Picchu, and I´m proud to say that I was number 1 at arriving to the top. Yeah, I know- you don´t think that going to Machu-Picchu is, or should be, a competition...but it is! They only allow 400 visitors each day to climb to the top of Wayna Picchu, the taller mountain next to Machu Picchu that you see in every postcard and photo. Naturally everyone wants to go, I mean what is one more hour of climbing after a five day 40 mile long trek?? Well, the competition was a little over rated. Everyone, even people who had been there weeks before me told me that it was really important to get there early and secure your spot in line. The ruins open at 6 am, and the busses start arriving at about a quarter to 6. The hike from Auguas Calientes, the nearby town everyone stays in, is about an hour and a half. I was up at 3:45. I sure as hell wasn't going to be shut out of the top spot in the park after my 5 day journey. Myself and two others from my group left at 4:20. The next hour and a half was miserable! Tired, and already beat up from the journey to this secluded town- a two hour hike up old wet Inka stairs, in the pitch black, with rain, was not on my list of most desireable things to do that day. But what can I say- I was too cool to take the bus. We arrived at about 5:30- and I was number 10 in line. I was pissed- what the hell did we wake up for?? Where are the other 400 people? But only untill the busses arrived just 10-15 minutes later, when the packs arrived in droves...then I was happy :)

Then the race started. After you get into Machu-Picchu, at 6, then you need to run all the way to the other sde of the ruins to the entrance to Wayna Picchu....I know, not the smartest system. Also, my first glance at Machu-Picchu was spent jockeing for position in the next line. Well, I was still 11th in line when I got to the base of Wayna Picchu...but it was terrible cloudy (as my pictures will show) and the first 9 people opted for the later climbing time of 10 am. Sweet, now I'm 2nd in line! As our 7 o'clock climb group started, the competitive spirit was still strong within me. Either that, or I was just so damn eager to get away from the crowds that once I was let loose, I just took off. The trail up was mostly switchbacks, with some straight ups that were practically like ladders, all these with scattered homes here and there along the way. I found myself about an hour later, after many slippery wet steps designed for mini-me shoes, at the top of Wayna Picchu. All by myself! I explored the top for a while, and picked my spot to perch for the best view. After soaking in the 360 views of absolutly amazing mountain peaks, draped in thin lines of cloud cover at different altitudes, I seteled in. Feeling accomplishied of reaching the destination of choice from the previous 5 days, I wondered what to do. I almost took a video, I almost started writing, but then I just started thinking... and I couldn't help but ask myself, who the hell would want to live up here?? I mean, the climb was difficult!, and I can't imagine of doing it every time I wanted to see some friends, or shop for food! I stayed long enough to relax and wait for the clouds to clear...which they sort of did, in about 10 second intervals. I got three pictures during a clearing...and my camera died. NICE. I still had fun. There were a bunch of Argentinian guys up there who were singing cloud moving sogns that sounded more like soccer chants...it was fun- we had the whole crowd cheering on the clouds! As they moved in and out of our viewing position people cheered and groaned, a fun expierence.

I didn't really find any answers to my living questions on the tour though. They really don't know much about the people who lived there. Of course, they have their theories...which mostly soundlike interesting stories to tell to tourist to me. Hiran Bignham, a German carteographer, turned explorer, is largerly credited with the discovery of Machu Picchu in 1911. It is believed to be inhabited during the 15th century, and deserted in 1539. No one knows why they left, war, pluege.?. My personal theory is that they got tired of climbing all those damn stairs! The Inkas are certainly given a lot of credit for building it, and after all they were excellent with cutting these granite stones and fitting them together without morter. There are great examples of this in Cusco as well (the Inka capital city). I must say it is impressive, and it must have been terribly time consuming. Also, their famous trail system allowed for an impressively large empire. They communicated through messengers, the strongest men from each village were entrusted with this important job, and their trails connected many cities and villages throughout their empire- which today would encompass parts of Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina. And their language, Quechua, is still today the primary language spoken in the mountainas regions of Peru and Bolivia. I definitly now, have a better understanding of these people, their culture, and their history.

Oh, did I mention the 4 days leading up to this?? Well, lets just say- I summited my 2nd 15,000 ft. + mountain in the last 2 weeks, saw some amazing peaks and beautiful lush valleis with great waterfalls, and terrifying bridges. Most days started at 6 am, after a soggy night in an ill equiped tents, and ended around 4, after mind numbing stepping repitition which, in the end is rewarded with amazing views, new friends, blisters, akeing bones, some really great hot springs...and when civilization is reached....a cold beer.

Cuzco...or Cancún???

This place confuses me. Cuzco is home to a weird combination of Hippies, Hipsters, Geriatrics, and Peruvians.

When I was in Ayacucho the locals there warned me, ´There are more gringos there than Peruvians.´ They were right! I have not been anywhere thus far with sooooo many tourists! The town is shapped accordingly. Complete with a McDonalds right on the town square.

First for the rich geriatric group.

There are a myriad of fine dinning establishments, of the likes are hard to find anywhere else in Peru. Not that the food there is necisarily better, but they certainly have the high prices, white table cloths, and suited up wait staff that we would expect at a resturaunt with extroidinary food. I´m not positively sure, but I have fair reason to believe that the food in Lima is better, a little cheaper, and bit less formal. Also present are a nice collection of hotels that look way too nice for the rest of the town. Prices at the shops near these hotels are actually more expensive!
Second for the hippies.

The central plaza, the plaza de armas (as all towns in Peru have in the center of town) is nearly overtaken by hippies, from all over the world. I never saw the haight-ashburry street in San Fransisco during the 60´s...but I imagine it is a similar scene....maybe with out all the violence and anger towards the man. This is all purely speculation as I have clearly not lived through the 60´s, and am admitedly chosen to be on the outside of the hippie scene here. All I do know is there are a lot of them here crowding the town square, they sit around all day long in circles of about 10, playing bad music from whatever sort of strange instruments they have dreamed up, sitting in the grass, swaying back and forth, and smoking a lot of pot!

Lastly the hipsters.

For the first time in my trip- I wish I had my tight black jeans, my chuck taylor converse, and my black leather jacket (ok its actually pleather, but that just makes it cooler, right??). Man, I would fit in. At least with one of the groups! The hipsters have their cheap hostels, dark obscure lounges...and all night discotechs. Which cater to the unobliged, drugged up partier. One hostel here, called Loki, reminds me exactly of senior trip to Cancún. First of all, its huge. Holds about 100 people, and is totally booked up! And its the off season down here. It comes with the all important bar, and throws parties almost every night...usually with a theme. Hell, the people who stay there even have electric green wrist bands! This crowd is so rowdy, that in the three days I have been here, one friend woke up to a couple having sex in the bunk above him, and another woke up to someone else throwing up on his bag! I decided to stay elsewhere.

There are undoubtedly other groups here in town, but there are much less well represeted. The good news is all can appreciate the towns good saftey, fun local people, and impressive history. Cuzco was the capital city of the all influential Inca civilization. And nearby is one of the seven wonders of the modern world....Machu-Pichu.

I leave tomorrow for what should be a memorable trek culminating with the arrival of ¨The Lost City of the Inca´s¨.

Decision Made

Well, it has been on my mind since the day I left Ayacucho- the eternally burning question of, should I go back?

I signed up for a leadership position, in charge of two projects. The first, was the last two weeks of Dec., then a 2 week break, and then the last 2 week project. I was the only volunteer for the first project, and most of my real volunteer position expierence came when I worked with the project before me in the begging of Dec. to see how everything is run. There were 12 volunteers then, for my project (which was during the holidays) I was the only one. It was a tough month for me, as you have likely read in my previous blogs.

Well, I don´t want to go back, I didn´t really enjoy the work in Ayacucho, but I think some others maybe did. Maybe volunteer work is simply not for me, or maybe I just signed up for the wrong type....working with kids. The situation was just so sad, and I knew that the only real way to make a significant difference in these kids lives was to be their parent. I also knew that I didn´t want that job....at least not now- at this point in my life. It really dragged into me, and the more I thought about it, the more I remember that this trip is really supposed to be about me...and be fun! I also thought that me going back, and just muscling through it....which is what I would have done....might have ruined the exíerence for the other volunteers, and probably been worse for the kids. Add this to the fact that I would have been unhappy, and the decision was made.

I´m heading to Cuzco.

I know, I´m a horible person. I feel terible leaving the project, but I think its the right decision. After all, I did spend a month there....thats twice what the normal volunteer spends. And even if I didn´t fulfill my formal commitment, I do feel privledged and proud for having gone and learned about the situation of these children and the city of Ayacucho and worked hard while I was there.

A Victim of my First Crime...I Called It Though

I mentioned that I thought Iquitos was a little dangerous, that I felt like there were more shady people here than anywhere I have been. And sure enough, I fell victim to my first scam since I have been in Peru. I always try to watch myself, and be careful, but damn- this guy was good.

I was changing money, and my first tip off should have been that the guy didn´t try to haggle the exchange rate with me, he just gave me the best rate straight up. Happily, I accepted, and handed over 40 dollars. At his rate, I was to recieve 126 soles back. He gave me 116, as I counted and checked all the bills for counterfit, I noticed that I was 10 short. I called him on it, and reluctantly, he took the money back to count it himself. Then, smiling and appoligizing, he took out another bill, and- I thought- added it to the pile. I again, checked the accuracy of the bills, but having seen him add the other bill, I did not count the money. Somehow, the guy actually took one less out of the pile! Now I´m out 20 soles. Damn it! I didn´t relize until later that night.

When I told the locals, they were a bit upset and told me to go back and yell at the guy! Fearing a far worse fate, I chose to let the incident go, and chalk it up to a learning expierence. I´m smarter now, and know what to look for, so at least it was only 20 soles and not much more. A good one to learn on.