Yup, the trip is now complete- and I think this will be my last post. So, first I want to say sorry to all of you out there that have at one point or another, wasted some valuable company time reading my blog...but- thankfully- March Madness can now take its place. :) But, also- to those same people- a deeply felt thank you. I'm really glad that people took an interest in the blog, and although it was always intended as a type of electronic journal for myself (so that when I'm old and can't remember my own name, at least I'll still have some stories!), it was encouraging to hear the comments on my adventures and it kept me returning to the blog to write more.
All that aside, I want to briefly mention the swirling worlds of emotions that I have gone through the last days of my trip. So strange, the emotions were...that I'm actually a bit reluctant to share the whole intensity of them to the world....nevertheless, here is the snapshot. It has really been a strange experience...leaving, that is. Actually, when I was leaving Buenos Aries (the start of my long journey home)..for the first time in several months, I really truly felt sad, but the sadness was mixed. It was combined with a strong sense of accomplishment, and pride. This trifecto emotion is a new one for me- and thus I thought worth mentioning. I'm not sure really if the sadness was leaving the people who I met along the way- some of whom I would have liked to get to know better- leaving places, ending a trip that I felt could have lasted a lifetime, or just the overall ending of what at one time, seemed such a monumental decision in my life. More and more I pondered the revelations of my trip...searching for super cosmic discoveries....but of course there were not many. At least none that would surprise you. I of course, have a truckload of new memories, fun stories, and amazing pictures! Mainly, though- I think I'm taking away a new sense of openness. To everything. The world feels open to me now, and the fear of going new places, is utterly lost.
In fact, along the way...and now...I have come to the same conclusion that I have in every sales job I have ever had. The question people like to ask is, so what is it like selling to 'xyz' type of person? (the same question applies to people in "xzy" country) As if they are some type of foreign species...they are not- we are all just people. And many of us have very similar wants, needs, and desires in this world. If you understand that, you can relate to anyone on the planet. And, when you can relate to people, everyone feels better. In fact, I've become relatively comfortable with people staring at me because I look different, or talking my broken Spanish to people who are making fun of me...I think these skills may help me down the road.
There is one thing that scares me though. The travelers plague that all of us carry in common...we are all forever planning our next trip. I will freely admit, that more than some thought has already gone into my next adventure. But, the question then really becomes, how do you sustain this type of lifestyle? what type of career will allow for it??? And, is that what you want to do?? ...all good questions...
My next adventure, I believe, will be starting my own business. A tough one indeed...but I think I'm ready for the challenge, and seeing people living through the rest of the world with virtually nothing has taught me that life will go on...no matter what number I see in my 401k. The fear of loosing it all, although not completely absent, has subsided in me for now. I think, having the nerve to risk it all for something you believe in is an important quality for an entrepreneur.
For now, though- I will enjoy being home, close to family and friends....and try to decide what that new venture will exactly be.
Once, again- thank you to all who were readers.
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Last Night Out
What a great last night in Buenos Aries...and sort of all S. America. Today, I officially start the long, long, long journey home. And I must say, I am ready, and excited to see family and friends. But, it just so happened that my last night here was also St. Patrick's Day- and I was invited to a great party to celebrate the holiday, and a birthday.
It was dinner and drinks at an apartment in San Telmo, then out to the Irish pubs and street festivals afterwards. I opted to step up the standard wine gift, and bring a bottle of rum and coke....it was a bad decision. When I arrived, I quickly realized I was going to be the only guy there, which was just fine with me. Especially since the rest of the company where about 20 Norwegian girls, all who spoke great English...sweet! I always feel a bit of trepidation when surrounded by a gang of the opposite sex...but they made me feel amazingly comfortable, going out of their way to speak English around me. I was really grateful. And, I was honored to be a part of their birthday celebration. Eventually a few more guys showed up, and more girls...and then the police.
Yup, good ole B.A.P.D. came a knocking. As always, someone invitingly opened up the door, and they walked right in, looking for the tenet of the building. Immediately they snatched up here passport, and started threatening to take her to jail. Of course, everyone was mildly freaking out, until we got a number out of him. That is, the amount of money it would take to pay the 'ticket' and just break up the party. The amount was about 60 dollars, but someone smartly called the landlord, who also happened to be the Spanish teacher of the Norwegian girls. He swept in to the rescue, worked things out with the police, and everyone went on our merry ways.
Our merry ways took us to the street festival, which...quite frankly, did not do St. Patrick's day justice. Maybe I'm spoiled after Chicago's yearly festivities (which I spent a lot of time talking up down here) but either way, I was not impressed. A good start would have been beer and portable toilets...but apparently that was too much to ask. Not long after we arrived, the group split up a bit and some of us ended up at a bar called the Red Door, Ironically a bar that I had already been to on my previous trip. Most importantly though, they had drinks and elbow room...as well as a really cool atmosphere. The night went on, and fun was had by all...especially now well lubricated with alcohol-as a proper St. Pats should be spent! :)
Today, I am meeting a friend for lunch, then going to purchase some drugs from the pharmacy to gt me through the bus voyage, off to never never land! All in all, I couldn't have a had a better last night out.
Looking forward to seeing you all soon.
It was dinner and drinks at an apartment in San Telmo, then out to the Irish pubs and street festivals afterwards. I opted to step up the standard wine gift, and bring a bottle of rum and coke....it was a bad decision. When I arrived, I quickly realized I was going to be the only guy there, which was just fine with me. Especially since the rest of the company where about 20 Norwegian girls, all who spoke great English...sweet! I always feel a bit of trepidation when surrounded by a gang of the opposite sex...but they made me feel amazingly comfortable, going out of their way to speak English around me. I was really grateful. And, I was honored to be a part of their birthday celebration. Eventually a few more guys showed up, and more girls...and then the police.
Yup, good ole B.A.P.D. came a knocking. As always, someone invitingly opened up the door, and they walked right in, looking for the tenet of the building. Immediately they snatched up here passport, and started threatening to take her to jail. Of course, everyone was mildly freaking out, until we got a number out of him. That is, the amount of money it would take to pay the 'ticket' and just break up the party. The amount was about 60 dollars, but someone smartly called the landlord, who also happened to be the Spanish teacher of the Norwegian girls. He swept in to the rescue, worked things out with the police, and everyone went on our merry ways.
Our merry ways took us to the street festival, which...quite frankly, did not do St. Patrick's day justice. Maybe I'm spoiled after Chicago's yearly festivities (which I spent a lot of time talking up down here) but either way, I was not impressed. A good start would have been beer and portable toilets...but apparently that was too much to ask. Not long after we arrived, the group split up a bit and some of us ended up at a bar called the Red Door, Ironically a bar that I had already been to on my previous trip. Most importantly though, they had drinks and elbow room...as well as a really cool atmosphere. The night went on, and fun was had by all...especially now well lubricated with alcohol-as a proper St. Pats should be spent! :)
Today, I am meeting a friend for lunch, then going to purchase some drugs from the pharmacy to gt me through the bus voyage, off to never never land! All in all, I couldn't have a had a better last night out.
Looking forward to seeing you all soon.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
The Small Things
I've noticed my blogs becoming more and more about the bigger things on my trip. When I started it seemed like every little thing was worth writing home about, and as I went along and saw more and more amazing things, well, I guess I began to ignore the subtle pleasantries of my trip in my blog. This, though, I think is a bad thing. So, this blog is tribute to my latest subtle pleasantries.
My trip from Punta Del Este turned out to be really cool. I was never really that impressed with the beaches there, but then- 5 minutes outside of town we drive past this huge beach, lined with mansions, and a golf course on the other side of the road!! Where the hell was that! 5 minutes away...oh well, I´m willing to bet the people watching was better at my beach. (at least that's what I'm telling myself) The route to Montevideo followed the coast the whole way, and really the beaches are pretty nice, but the water is not. It is a river delta area, and the water is half salt half fresh...and well the water coming down river isn't the nicest - picture the Mississippi River entering into the Gulf at New Orleans. It turns the ocean a nice brown color closer to Montevideo. As we get closer to the city, huge mansions and embassies start showing up along the coastal road, along with running paths, and beach volleyball and soccer courts. Then suddenly a wall of mostly even height buildings, from the same long past architectural code, faces the coast as if it is a massive fort wall, and you know you are there. It is a cool sight, and the 2 hour ride flew by.
My other small, very guilty pleasantry, was Burger King. Yup, I confessed last time I ate at our fast food in Lima, well- I faltered again...and I loved it! I had not tasted BBQ sauce in a long time, then I sprang for the new western burger (or something like that) and had a sweet taste of home. I must say I really did enjoy it. I do feel terrible though, I had that terrific seafood restaurant, literally for the same price I could have had a huge piece of fresh fish and rice. But, I had eaten that for the last 4 nights....what can I say- I guess you can have too much of a good thing.
I´m back in Buenos Aries now, and ready for my long journey home. I have a bus ticket that leaves tomorrow for Lima, and then hoping on a plane heading for home. You don´t even want to know how long that bus ride is...but it will be my last for a while.....OK- just for shock value, its 72 hours. Yeah, that's right, 72. Wish me luck.
My trip from Punta Del Este turned out to be really cool. I was never really that impressed with the beaches there, but then- 5 minutes outside of town we drive past this huge beach, lined with mansions, and a golf course on the other side of the road!! Where the hell was that! 5 minutes away...oh well, I´m willing to bet the people watching was better at my beach. (at least that's what I'm telling myself) The route to Montevideo followed the coast the whole way, and really the beaches are pretty nice, but the water is not. It is a river delta area, and the water is half salt half fresh...and well the water coming down river isn't the nicest - picture the Mississippi River entering into the Gulf at New Orleans. It turns the ocean a nice brown color closer to Montevideo. As we get closer to the city, huge mansions and embassies start showing up along the coastal road, along with running paths, and beach volleyball and soccer courts. Then suddenly a wall of mostly even height buildings, from the same long past architectural code, faces the coast as if it is a massive fort wall, and you know you are there. It is a cool sight, and the 2 hour ride flew by.
My other small, very guilty pleasantry, was Burger King. Yup, I confessed last time I ate at our fast food in Lima, well- I faltered again...and I loved it! I had not tasted BBQ sauce in a long time, then I sprang for the new western burger (or something like that) and had a sweet taste of home. I must say I really did enjoy it. I do feel terrible though, I had that terrific seafood restaurant, literally for the same price I could have had a huge piece of fresh fish and rice. But, I had eaten that for the last 4 nights....what can I say- I guess you can have too much of a good thing.
I´m back in Buenos Aries now, and ready for my long journey home. I have a bus ticket that leaves tomorrow for Lima, and then hoping on a plane heading for home. You don´t even want to know how long that bus ride is...but it will be my last for a while.....OK- just for shock value, its 72 hours. Yeah, that's right, 72. Wish me luck.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Punta del Este, Uruguay
Urugauy, where the hell is that?
Well, it just north of Argentina, and just south of Brazil, the capital is Montevideo, with just over 1 million people, it is recovering from a oppressive dictatorship- as most other countries I have visited here are-, the flag looks amazingly similar to Argentina´s, and I am here.
Punta del Este is a popular beach retreat for many of Buenos Aries´s elite (and of course other S. Americans), and you can see it everywhere here. There are Gucci and Prada, and Luis Vantan stores. They are selling luxory all over the place here...condos, fashion, food, and yatchs! The bad part...it is all expensive. But, it does make for fun window shopping- and given the weather lately here- I have been doing a lot of that!
Unfortunatly I have seen mostly rain, or at least partly rainy days. But, I resolved not to leave until I got a clear day. I was awarded from my wait yesterday by a perfect blue sky day. I went straight for the beach! I planned on getting some good beach time in in Rio, so this is my substitute. It is a sexy beach, but it can´t be quite as sexy as Rio. Nevertheless, there are plenty of small bathing suits, and a small, but happening nightlife.
All the waiting around, also had a good side effect. We found good resturaunts in town. In fact, by asking around a little and searching a bit, we fell upon a real small (4 tables) fish place off the beaten track. They were super friendly from the moment we stepped in, and, not really knowing what was on the menu (it is really hard to learn all the names of different fish, and cuts of meat in Spanish...I don´t even know them all in English!)...we setteled for the waiter/owner´s recomendation. All we told him is we wanted fish. Out came an impressively tasty fish...and a huge portion of it! It was so good, and only $8, that we came back the next night, with friends, and the next night again. I have eaten this insanly fresh fish every night but one I have been here. Last night it must have been a 20 oz. filet of Flounder...which was wonderful! But, the one night we did venture away from our new favorite, we went to a place called a parilla. Now, parilla, translated (I think) is BBQ. But this place wasn´t anything like a St. Louis style slab of ribs. No, more like half of a cow of hot sizzeling meat on a overflowing plate, served for a group. In our case, Alan and I shared the plate for 2....it could have fed 5 hungry men. Two types of suasages, 3 types of steaks, and then the fun stuff, grilled cow kidney, cow ears, intestine...you name it on the cow- it was grilled up and staring at us from the table. I think this one cost up $12 each, and it was quite the expierence. Of course, you muuuussttt try everything on the plate...at least once...I mean, it would be rude not to. .......lets just say, of the aforementioned wierdness ...the ear was my favorite... and it wasn´t good. But, overall, the dinner was great. Definitly worth the 12 bucks!
Also, another unforseen side effect of the storms, are great sunsets. The rain has somehow stopped at sunset time every day, and the sun peaking through from behind the storm clouds, over the ocean, and setting behind an island off in the distance makes for some pretty cool senery, and is an excellent way to wind down the day (you know the stressfull life of a traveler! :)....you really need to wind down. :)
Lastly the nightlife...for some reason, I tend to go out more in these smaller towns. I´m not sure if it is from boredom, or if I just feel safer here, and am more likely to go out and have some drinks...whatever the reason, it seems to be true. Last night, I went out with some new friends from the hostel (standard hosteling practice) to a place called Moby Dick´s Pub. Funny I thought, since I am reading Moby Dick at the moment, and realizing how many refrences of names familiar to me there are from the book. Pequods is the name of the boat in the book- also a pizza resturaunt in Chicago. Mr. Starbuck, is the chief mate on the boat- any refrence to the popular coffee shop?? Now this place...wierd...But, anyway--the place was packed with partiers, I´m not sure from where these people came, but they were there, and carrying on the tradition of the Argentines- we partied late. I´m not sure if the place ever closes, but when we saw the sun coming up over the ocean...we thought maybe that is a good cue to head home. Good times.
All is well, and I plan next to head back to Buenos Aries (which I am more and more excited about every moment) and then make the long journey home. Closing up the trip I am filled with thoughts and reflections, but that will wait for a later time. I hope all is well at home...and I hope to see all of you soon.
Well, it just north of Argentina, and just south of Brazil, the capital is Montevideo, with just over 1 million people, it is recovering from a oppressive dictatorship- as most other countries I have visited here are-, the flag looks amazingly similar to Argentina´s, and I am here.
Punta del Este is a popular beach retreat for many of Buenos Aries´s elite (and of course other S. Americans), and you can see it everywhere here. There are Gucci and Prada, and Luis Vantan stores. They are selling luxory all over the place here...condos, fashion, food, and yatchs! The bad part...it is all expensive. But, it does make for fun window shopping- and given the weather lately here- I have been doing a lot of that!
Unfortunatly I have seen mostly rain, or at least partly rainy days. But, I resolved not to leave until I got a clear day. I was awarded from my wait yesterday by a perfect blue sky day. I went straight for the beach! I planned on getting some good beach time in in Rio, so this is my substitute. It is a sexy beach, but it can´t be quite as sexy as Rio. Nevertheless, there are plenty of small bathing suits, and a small, but happening nightlife.
All the waiting around, also had a good side effect. We found good resturaunts in town. In fact, by asking around a little and searching a bit, we fell upon a real small (4 tables) fish place off the beaten track. They were super friendly from the moment we stepped in, and, not really knowing what was on the menu (it is really hard to learn all the names of different fish, and cuts of meat in Spanish...I don´t even know them all in English!)...we setteled for the waiter/owner´s recomendation. All we told him is we wanted fish. Out came an impressively tasty fish...and a huge portion of it! It was so good, and only $8, that we came back the next night, with friends, and the next night again. I have eaten this insanly fresh fish every night but one I have been here. Last night it must have been a 20 oz. filet of Flounder...which was wonderful! But, the one night we did venture away from our new favorite, we went to a place called a parilla. Now, parilla, translated (I think) is BBQ. But this place wasn´t anything like a St. Louis style slab of ribs. No, more like half of a cow of hot sizzeling meat on a overflowing plate, served for a group. In our case, Alan and I shared the plate for 2....it could have fed 5 hungry men. Two types of suasages, 3 types of steaks, and then the fun stuff, grilled cow kidney, cow ears, intestine...you name it on the cow- it was grilled up and staring at us from the table. I think this one cost up $12 each, and it was quite the expierence. Of course, you muuuussttt try everything on the plate...at least once...I mean, it would be rude not to. .......lets just say, of the aforementioned wierdness ...the ear was my favorite... and it wasn´t good. But, overall, the dinner was great. Definitly worth the 12 bucks!
Also, another unforseen side effect of the storms, are great sunsets. The rain has somehow stopped at sunset time every day, and the sun peaking through from behind the storm clouds, over the ocean, and setting behind an island off in the distance makes for some pretty cool senery, and is an excellent way to wind down the day (you know the stressfull life of a traveler! :)....you really need to wind down. :)
Lastly the nightlife...for some reason, I tend to go out more in these smaller towns. I´m not sure if it is from boredom, or if I just feel safer here, and am more likely to go out and have some drinks...whatever the reason, it seems to be true. Last night, I went out with some new friends from the hostel (standard hosteling practice) to a place called Moby Dick´s Pub. Funny I thought, since I am reading Moby Dick at the moment, and realizing how many refrences of names familiar to me there are from the book. Pequods is the name of the boat in the book- also a pizza resturaunt in Chicago. Mr. Starbuck, is the chief mate on the boat- any refrence to the popular coffee shop?? Now this place...wierd...But, anyway--the place was packed with partiers, I´m not sure from where these people came, but they were there, and carrying on the tradition of the Argentines- we partied late. I´m not sure if the place ever closes, but when we saw the sun coming up over the ocean...we thought maybe that is a good cue to head home. Good times.
All is well, and I plan next to head back to Buenos Aries (which I am more and more excited about every moment) and then make the long journey home. Closing up the trip I am filled with thoughts and reflections, but that will wait for a later time. I hope all is well at home...and I hope to see all of you soon.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Trouble at the Embassy
Well, everything was going to plan, I was moving quick- and on track to hit all of my planned destinations. I was in Buenos Aries, and on my way up to Rio via Uruguay.
I went to the embassy to find out what I needed to get my visa in order to visit Brazil while I was in Buenos Aries. I showed up at 1:15 on Monday, and of course, the office closed at 1. So, suffering my first set back, I left with the name of the website to look up the materials needed for my visa.
For the record, many people do not need visas for Brazil, just Americans, and a hand full of other countries. It was rumored to cost somewhere between 100- and 150 dollars, and take two days to get. Hence the urgency, since I only have about 10 days left on my trip now.
But, I had a new, cunning plan. There was another embassy in Montevideo, the capital city of Uruguay that I would have to pass through anyway. So, we took the morning cruise, across the ocean/ river delta to Montevideo from Buenos Aries, the ride took 3 hours, and it was fun- sort of a mini cruise ship type of thing. I went straight to the embassy, only to find out that my ticket to leave South America from Lima wasn't good enough proof that I was going to leave Brazil. I needed a specific ticket into, and out of Brazil. Also, the time frame changed, now it was anywhere from 2-10 days it would take to get the visa. Meanwhile, they have your passport and you can not go anywhere.
I thought about it long and hard. The cheapest bus ticket I could buy round trip was $132, just to have something to show them, I knew I wouldn't actually be taking that bus, and I also knew that I had a slim to none chance of getting a refund if I didn't use it. Next option? Planes. I was already considering, or planning rather, on buying a plane ticket from Rio to Lima given my time crunch. I knew it would be about $500, but I was willing to take the hit. Now however, those flights were $750 for some reason, and a ticket from Montevideo was about $260. The hitch here is, everything you are planning, and buying, is depending on some woman behind a desk, who really didn't look to happy to give me a visa, and would not assure me of any sort of time frame besides 2-10 days for the visa. I needed to have the visa in 4 days maximum, after that, I would be paying all this for a whole of 2 days in Rio. And, if I bought my flight and then didn't get my visa in time for my flight...then what??
Bottom line, $1,000 was too much to gamble on this disgruntled old woman. I wish I could have made it...but hey, I´m in Punta del Este, Uruguay...I guess I will just have some more time at the beach!
I went to the embassy to find out what I needed to get my visa in order to visit Brazil while I was in Buenos Aries. I showed up at 1:15 on Monday, and of course, the office closed at 1. So, suffering my first set back, I left with the name of the website to look up the materials needed for my visa.
For the record, many people do not need visas for Brazil, just Americans, and a hand full of other countries. It was rumored to cost somewhere between 100- and 150 dollars, and take two days to get. Hence the urgency, since I only have about 10 days left on my trip now.
But, I had a new, cunning plan. There was another embassy in Montevideo, the capital city of Uruguay that I would have to pass through anyway. So, we took the morning cruise, across the ocean/ river delta to Montevideo from Buenos Aries, the ride took 3 hours, and it was fun- sort of a mini cruise ship type of thing. I went straight to the embassy, only to find out that my ticket to leave South America from Lima wasn't good enough proof that I was going to leave Brazil. I needed a specific ticket into, and out of Brazil. Also, the time frame changed, now it was anywhere from 2-10 days it would take to get the visa. Meanwhile, they have your passport and you can not go anywhere.
I thought about it long and hard. The cheapest bus ticket I could buy round trip was $132, just to have something to show them, I knew I wouldn't actually be taking that bus, and I also knew that I had a slim to none chance of getting a refund if I didn't use it. Next option? Planes. I was already considering, or planning rather, on buying a plane ticket from Rio to Lima given my time crunch. I knew it would be about $500, but I was willing to take the hit. Now however, those flights were $750 for some reason, and a ticket from Montevideo was about $260. The hitch here is, everything you are planning, and buying, is depending on some woman behind a desk, who really didn't look to happy to give me a visa, and would not assure me of any sort of time frame besides 2-10 days for the visa. I needed to have the visa in 4 days maximum, after that, I would be paying all this for a whole of 2 days in Rio. And, if I bought my flight and then didn't get my visa in time for my flight...then what??
Bottom line, $1,000 was too much to gamble on this disgruntled old woman. I wish I could have made it...but hey, I´m in Punta del Este, Uruguay...I guess I will just have some more time at the beach!
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
My Time in Buenos Aries
Its my last day here in Buenos Aries, and I feel the need to transcribe the last few days before I move on; they have been jam packed with activities and events.
First of all, Buenos Aries is a real ´big´ city- with somewhere around 13 million ´potreños´, the city has wide avenues for streets. The widest of these is the street my hostel is on. It has ten lanes of traffic, on each side! 7 lanes each are the middle lanes, then each has a 3 lane side street separated by a friendly strip of grass and trees. This still operates like a normal street though, you can still make left hand turns, and there are stop lights at every intersection. Walking across this avenue sometimes takes 3 light changes!
Coming into the city was easy on a flight, the domestic airport I flew into was nice and clean- but after trying our first 5 hostels looking for a place to call home for our stay, we were getting a bit frustrated with everything being booked up. It is hot here....really hot, and humid! And carrying around your huge backpack, trying to follow a map around a foreign city, looking for hostels, is not so much fun- and also probably a bit unsafe. But, alas- we found one! Albeit without air conditioning...and on top of the busiest road in town...its OK- a place to stay.
Immediately I began exploring the neighborhoods. We are near the central part of town, and there is terrific old french style architecture everywhere. Also lining the streets, are coffee shops and restaurants. Clearly, the culinary attraction of this town is one of its highlights. It is known for its steak and wine...and I have eaten steak, and drank wine every night I have been here- its great! Last night, we went to a steak spot in the new neighborhood of puerto moderno, an old port that has been remodeled into shopping and condo´s. It was all you can eat steak, prepared however you want it (but they prefer to serve rare) salad bar, dessert, and a bottle of wine for each person! All for about 17 dollars. It was great time. There are many of these all you can eat steak places...and they are usually all pretty good. They definitely take pride in their food- which I am loving!
I have also visited the edgy, but colorful, barrio of La Boca...or the mouth. It is also by the ocean, and has a port where all goods and people once traveled through to enter the city. Nowadays the ´hood is famous for housing its famous soccer team, Boca Jr., and its stadium- which is said to hold 200,000 people. Also, near the water, most homes are painted vivid, lively colors, which has created a fun sight for tourist, and good pictures. As much as the people here love their steaks and wine, they also love their soccer. Being here to experience the culture, a game here was a must! Luckily, there was match coming up, and with two teams from Buenos Aries, the Hurricanes, vs. the legendary Boca Jr. club. Getting in was not easy, and it took us two trips to the stadium, conversations with many of the locals, and finally paying off two disabled people- who apparently have some sort of government card that allows them entrance into all of the events at the stadium- to finally get in. We never actually got tickets, which were apparently sold out, but we were in, and that was all that mattered. Each team had a crazy cheering section behind their goals. They cheered throughout the entire match, often trying to silence the other team by getting louder. It was great fun, the home team won, and we saw some great goals. Nothing bad was going to happen, as the police were out in force! On one side of the stadium an entire empty section, lined by guards separated the fans from the two opposing teams, and on the other, a tall fence with barbed wire at the top! And in fact, the craziest the fans got, was when a player received a red card and was thrown out of the game! Good times.
Other highlights have been, strolling through San Telmo on Sunday, where there was the coolest antiques fair I have ever been to. They had huge marble roman sculptures that were really cool. Tango dancers performing in the street, artist painting artwork on the street, and musicians, almost every 50 feet playing a different tune. It was impossible to be bored there.
Also, an elite graveyard is definitely on the list of things to see here. I know it sounds a bit weird- but these grave sites are works of art. Huge marble and granite structures with religious statues at the top adorn these mostly great military personnel, or high achieving doctors. Even Evita is buried here! All of BA´s most beloved citizens rest in luxury here. A very interesting sight.
This may go with out saying, but BA is a huge party town, and everything starts late here, and ends even later. The nightly party schedule goes something like this. You go out to dinner, (obviously a steak house) at around 9 and stay until about midnight. Then go to a friends house for a few drinks before leaving for a nightclub at about 2 am. They don't usually open before 1, at the earliest...then you stay out, dancing to your favorite music all night long. These places don´t close until 10 am...so, you pretty much just hang in there as long as you can, then sleep it off the next day! Nothing really gets started and opened until noon the next day!
Overall this is just a cool big city. It has it all, a fast, convenient and cheap subway system, a hundred cool neighborhoods to check out, great parks, sexy tango, good music, old school cafes (the oldest is 150+ years), and great restaurants. All for a fraction of the price. I like Buenos Aries, and I´m so glad I finally made it here.
Tomorrow I head north, to Uruguay, and Punta Del Este, which is supposed to be one of the nicest beaches in South America...I´m excited.
First of all, Buenos Aries is a real ´big´ city- with somewhere around 13 million ´potreños´, the city has wide avenues for streets. The widest of these is the street my hostel is on. It has ten lanes of traffic, on each side! 7 lanes each are the middle lanes, then each has a 3 lane side street separated by a friendly strip of grass and trees. This still operates like a normal street though, you can still make left hand turns, and there are stop lights at every intersection. Walking across this avenue sometimes takes 3 light changes!
Coming into the city was easy on a flight, the domestic airport I flew into was nice and clean- but after trying our first 5 hostels looking for a place to call home for our stay, we were getting a bit frustrated with everything being booked up. It is hot here....really hot, and humid! And carrying around your huge backpack, trying to follow a map around a foreign city, looking for hostels, is not so much fun- and also probably a bit unsafe. But, alas- we found one! Albeit without air conditioning...and on top of the busiest road in town...its OK- a place to stay.
Immediately I began exploring the neighborhoods. We are near the central part of town, and there is terrific old french style architecture everywhere. Also lining the streets, are coffee shops and restaurants. Clearly, the culinary attraction of this town is one of its highlights. It is known for its steak and wine...and I have eaten steak, and drank wine every night I have been here- its great! Last night, we went to a steak spot in the new neighborhood of puerto moderno, an old port that has been remodeled into shopping and condo´s. It was all you can eat steak, prepared however you want it (but they prefer to serve rare) salad bar, dessert, and a bottle of wine for each person! All for about 17 dollars. It was great time. There are many of these all you can eat steak places...and they are usually all pretty good. They definitely take pride in their food- which I am loving!
I have also visited the edgy, but colorful, barrio of La Boca...or the mouth. It is also by the ocean, and has a port where all goods and people once traveled through to enter the city. Nowadays the ´hood is famous for housing its famous soccer team, Boca Jr., and its stadium- which is said to hold 200,000 people. Also, near the water, most homes are painted vivid, lively colors, which has created a fun sight for tourist, and good pictures. As much as the people here love their steaks and wine, they also love their soccer. Being here to experience the culture, a game here was a must! Luckily, there was match coming up, and with two teams from Buenos Aries, the Hurricanes, vs. the legendary Boca Jr. club. Getting in was not easy, and it took us two trips to the stadium, conversations with many of the locals, and finally paying off two disabled people- who apparently have some sort of government card that allows them entrance into all of the events at the stadium- to finally get in. We never actually got tickets, which were apparently sold out, but we were in, and that was all that mattered. Each team had a crazy cheering section behind their goals. They cheered throughout the entire match, often trying to silence the other team by getting louder. It was great fun, the home team won, and we saw some great goals. Nothing bad was going to happen, as the police were out in force! On one side of the stadium an entire empty section, lined by guards separated the fans from the two opposing teams, and on the other, a tall fence with barbed wire at the top! And in fact, the craziest the fans got, was when a player received a red card and was thrown out of the game! Good times.
Other highlights have been, strolling through San Telmo on Sunday, where there was the coolest antiques fair I have ever been to. They had huge marble roman sculptures that were really cool. Tango dancers performing in the street, artist painting artwork on the street, and musicians, almost every 50 feet playing a different tune. It was impossible to be bored there.
Also, an elite graveyard is definitely on the list of things to see here. I know it sounds a bit weird- but these grave sites are works of art. Huge marble and granite structures with religious statues at the top adorn these mostly great military personnel, or high achieving doctors. Even Evita is buried here! All of BA´s most beloved citizens rest in luxury here. A very interesting sight.
This may go with out saying, but BA is a huge party town, and everything starts late here, and ends even later. The nightly party schedule goes something like this. You go out to dinner, (obviously a steak house) at around 9 and stay until about midnight. Then go to a friends house for a few drinks before leaving for a nightclub at about 2 am. They don't usually open before 1, at the earliest...then you stay out, dancing to your favorite music all night long. These places don´t close until 10 am...so, you pretty much just hang in there as long as you can, then sleep it off the next day! Nothing really gets started and opened until noon the next day!
Overall this is just a cool big city. It has it all, a fast, convenient and cheap subway system, a hundred cool neighborhoods to check out, great parks, sexy tango, good music, old school cafes (the oldest is 150+ years), and great restaurants. All for a fraction of the price. I like Buenos Aries, and I´m so glad I finally made it here.
Tomorrow I head north, to Uruguay, and Punta Del Este, which is supposed to be one of the nicest beaches in South America...I´m excited.
Friday, March 6, 2009
El Calafate, Argentina
I had another great trip yesterday. Armed and ready for the usual steady, slow, and generally uncomfortable bus ride in South America, I left Puerto Natales, Chile- aiming for El Calafate, Argentina. El Calafate is just a 5 hour bus ride away. Both towns are in Patagonia, and are not that geographically far from each other, but you add traveling over dirt roads, then throw in a boarder crossing, and pow- you have a 5 hour journey.
Usually I am dreading these rides, but this one turned out to be a great one. Not just because I had two seats to myself, but also...and principally because, we were traveling through the great Patagonian landscape at sunset. In the mountains, I never had a great view of the sun set. But now we were out in the wide open...and man is it wide open!-picture Kansas corn fields....but much colder, and with out people, or farms. And I can´t help dreaming about living out here, or imagine what type of life you could actually live off this land if you needed to. I saw the occasional rabbit off the road, but other than that...I´m not sure much lives out here, and if they do, I don´t know where. It is definitely pure wilderness out here. Which again means a pretty desolate landscape, just some yellow gold grasses, and the occasional grey-blue-green shrubs...and you've got the picture. But today, this night- the sky was lit up into amazing colors reflecting off of perfectly placed sweeping clouds as the sun set behind some distant mountains. In the other side of the sky, was the moon! Not just that shadow of the moon you sometimes see when the sun is still up, this moon was fully lit and shinning bright! It created really interesting light outside, and I really wanted to ask the driver to stop so I could take pictures! But I held back. The reflection of this light onto the gold yellow grasses was really cool. But soon it was totally night, and not long after came a town in the distance.
Arriving into El Calafate, was like pulling into a new kind of world. Apart from the ski resort at the boarder crossing, and a small mining town near the boarder, I had not seen anything in Argentina, except the landscape. Well, El Calafate is sure a different place than Puerto Natales. El Calafate is exploding!! They call it a ´new´town. Which means, they somehow are just realizing that this amazing glacier here, Perito Moreno, is a major tourist attraction, and Argentine´s are moving here in droves. New hotels are up and running, and I swear to god this place feels like summit county in Colorado. The main street that is emerging has potential to be as charming as the one in Breckenridge. There are many shops catering to the rich, and even a grand new casino right on the main street!! The street lights are wired up and running, in spots beyond the city, where there are not even streets yet. This place is expecting growth. Very interesting how two towns, so close, only across a boarder from each other, can be so dramatically different. So much so, that I thought it worth a blog.
This afternoon, I fly to Buenos Aries- a city I fantasized much about during the rough Chicago winters of past. I am soooo excited!! :)
Usually I am dreading these rides, but this one turned out to be a great one. Not just because I had two seats to myself, but also...and principally because, we were traveling through the great Patagonian landscape at sunset. In the mountains, I never had a great view of the sun set. But now we were out in the wide open...and man is it wide open!-picture Kansas corn fields....but much colder, and with out people, or farms. And I can´t help dreaming about living out here, or imagine what type of life you could actually live off this land if you needed to. I saw the occasional rabbit off the road, but other than that...I´m not sure much lives out here, and if they do, I don´t know where. It is definitely pure wilderness out here. Which again means a pretty desolate landscape, just some yellow gold grasses, and the occasional grey-blue-green shrubs...and you've got the picture. But today, this night- the sky was lit up into amazing colors reflecting off of perfectly placed sweeping clouds as the sun set behind some distant mountains. In the other side of the sky, was the moon! Not just that shadow of the moon you sometimes see when the sun is still up, this moon was fully lit and shinning bright! It created really interesting light outside, and I really wanted to ask the driver to stop so I could take pictures! But I held back. The reflection of this light onto the gold yellow grasses was really cool. But soon it was totally night, and not long after came a town in the distance.
Arriving into El Calafate, was like pulling into a new kind of world. Apart from the ski resort at the boarder crossing, and a small mining town near the boarder, I had not seen anything in Argentina, except the landscape. Well, El Calafate is sure a different place than Puerto Natales. El Calafate is exploding!! They call it a ´new´town. Which means, they somehow are just realizing that this amazing glacier here, Perito Moreno, is a major tourist attraction, and Argentine´s are moving here in droves. New hotels are up and running, and I swear to god this place feels like summit county in Colorado. The main street that is emerging has potential to be as charming as the one in Breckenridge. There are many shops catering to the rich, and even a grand new casino right on the main street!! The street lights are wired up and running, in spots beyond the city, where there are not even streets yet. This place is expecting growth. Very interesting how two towns, so close, only across a boarder from each other, can be so dramatically different. So much so, that I thought it worth a blog.
This afternoon, I fly to Buenos Aries- a city I fantasized much about during the rough Chicago winters of past. I am soooo excited!! :)
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Patagonia
What a cool place..I mean that literally, its cold down here! Every trek I have been on, every mountain climbed, came with its weather worries. At Huyana Patosi, in Bolivia it was snow, it just so happened that we were dumped on the night before we summitted, and during the climb as well. In Peru, at both Machu Pichu and the Santa Cruz trek in Huraz, it was rain. Leaking tents, and consistent rain each day made for a lethal combination.
In Patagonia, its wind. There have been reports of people actually being blown off the side of a the trail to fall to their deaths. Specifically, from our information session, the leader spoke of a time when someone was breaking down their tent, a big gust of wind came, he or she held on, and it took them 20 feet off the ground. It is serious stuff, and you need to prepare accordingly. Indeed, the day we checked into Torres de Plaines national park, the forecast called for 85 km/hr winds that day, and 75 the next. I don´t know how many miles an hour that is, but I can tell you from experience, it is a lot!
A truly action packed hike, there were highlights on everyday of the trip. The first big one was glacier grey, situated just above lake grey, we spent the day fighting the wind for a campsite shouldering the glacier. Just a 5 hour hike ahead, this would be our easiest day, and fittingly so since your packs are the heaviest at the beginning. On the way, we were gifted with the sights of many icebergs floating along in the grey lake, and when we finally got our close up encounter with glacier grey...well it was breathtaking. First of all, at the shear size of this thing, but later at its intricate beauty. It looked like a chef had chopped and diced up some onions, then froze them together, adding blue food coloring, and then sprinkling some pepper on top of it all. Some of the slices had intense blue color, it was really cool. And you could almost feel the pressure and impact this giant piece of ice was having on the area. Can you imagine the amount of pressure that this thing had?? several miles long (as far as I could see) and maybe 50 ft high at its base (again where I could see)....that has to be thousands of tons of ice moving down the mountainside! Oh, and did I mention the effect on the weather?? Because, yes, it has one. This is part of the 3rd largest ice shelf in the world, and it impacts the climate all over the world...making it colder of course, so, can you imagine sleeping next to it?? It was a cold night.
But, we were happy to be seeing it, and ate up every minute of the 15 hours of sunlight this place offers. Once we managed to crawl out of our sleeping bags the next day, we realized we had slept in, and were now on the clock to make it to our next campsite. The whole trek was in the shape of a W and waking on the first morning we were at the top of the first point of the W, the goal was to make it to the next top point for camp that night, then again at the final top for the last. Day two was spent hiking up the ¨French Vally¨which was equally amazing. It offered high mountain peaks, literally surrounding you. Meanwhile, you walk through this lush valley occupied by dense forest one minute, then a rock scape remaining from a landslide the next. It was constantly changing. In fact, we saw at least 5 giant pieces of glacier break off from the mountains above to come crashing down the mountainside...usually landing on other glaciers. Again, I couldn't stop thinking about how cool this place is, and how many of my friends and family would love this spot as well.
But Allan was struggling. He has made all of the aforementioned treks with me, and always dealt with some pain in his knees, which he knows are bad. But this time it was getting the best of him. Each step was getting more painful, and he knew that for everyone he went up, he would have to get down the next day...the real tough part on the knees. The next day, after a trying 7 hour hike, and getting down the valley we had previously conquered...he was ready to call it a day. I don´t blame him, especially since the park offers ´refugios´along the way where they are serving people nice dinners with wine and coffee and cake...and all inside a heated cabin. These were tough to walk by on the trail and pass up. But, I always felt more hard core camping and cooking outside on my own...that, I feel, is a more realistic outdoors experience. But, to each their own.
He went in, and I went up. The last day, was easily the longest. I spent a solid 10 hours of hiking that day, but I had to make it to a certain point. Specifically, the Torres Campsite. The Torres, (or towers in English) were what everyone visited the park for. They are 3 amazingly unusual tall skinny mountain peaks sticking out of this already unique mountain range- giving it its namesake Torres de Plaines, or Towers of the Plains. You see, Patagonia is normally a flat place, this park is really the exception more than the rule. Usually it is long plains filled with grasses, shrubs...and wind! What makes these 3 towers even more special though, is that at sunrise, when the lighting is just right, they light up like the red rocks in southern Utah, or Arizona- you picture this among the snow sitting at their base, and the blue grey lake below that, and you truly have a terrific feast for the eyes.
This was the goal. Now, you can´t do anything about the weather, but- I´m going to be damn sure I will be up there at sunrise- just in case I luck out and see the unforgettable. The idea then, is to get to the closest campsite (Torres Campsite) so that your hiking in the dark early the next morning is minimized. Trying to adhere to this plan is now difficult, I have lost my travel companion, which now means I am carrying the whole tent and all of the food myself. The hardest day of the trip isn't usually when you need to add 5 or 10 pounds to your pack. Determined as I was though, I made it to the camp around 8:30, I had been hiking for 9 and a half hours...and made it in an hour before sunset. I quickly set up my tent and prepared supper...pasta...of course. But I knew I would need to wake up at 5 am to get there in time for the 7 o´clock sunrise. I was so excited I could hardly sleep!
Up and about at 4:45, I was out and hiking, alone, and with only my headlamp to light the way...I was reveling in the adventure of it all. Around each corner I questioned my step, and every trail marker I found was a small triumph. Crossing rivers on makeshift tree-trunk bridges was of specific adventure in the dark. However, after 30 minutes or so of this, when I am really starting to question where the hell I am going...I catch a glimpse of some other headlamps in the distance behind me. A bit disappointed, I immediately set out at a highlighted pace...no one is catching me!! But, a bit later, I see someone getting close...so I wait up, hoping to talk when he or she gets close. It was another American! He was from Montana, and luckily this was his third time up (so he knew where the hell he was going), and his third attempt at seeing a good sunrise...he first two were unlucky. The accent started, and didn't stop for an hour- at least, and after he realized I was going to keep up with him, he slowed his pace just a little. We ended up passing quite a few people together (turns out I was not the first one awake). And later, as we were getting towards the top, I passed him up. I was the first one to the view point, and the sun was just peaking out from the eastern sky. I looked back down the rocky mountain trail, and noticed an army of headlamps coming my way. Oh great, here comes another Machu Pichu I thought, but it wasn't as bad. There were maybe 50 of us up there, and we were rewarded with a great sunrise.
The towers were indeed illuminated with a fiery dark red, amongst a dark dark grey blue sky...it was a wonderful sight, but it didn't last long. Many, including me, were waiting for it to get better, when I looked the other way to take in the beauty of the actual sunrise, I looked back, and the towers were grey. They turned to stone! OK, they were already stone, but for a minute they looked different, and if you weren't looking, or didn't make it up in time, then you are SOL! I did manage a few good pictures though. Especially good, are the ones of me, bundled into my sleeping bag, using my fleece bag as a giant scarf, freezing my ass off waiting for this sunrise! That, in fact, this along with the lone star nighttime hike, were my favorite moments of this trip. Alone, in my bag, fighting off the cold winds, and waiting for the sight of a lifetime.
I came down, and rubbed it in as much as I could to Allan...but he wasn't having it...going on simply wasn't an option for him. I feel bad he missed out, but I took some good photos for him...and you, to see!
Now, I am enjoying the wonderful small town of Puerto Natales. Deep into Patagonia, they feel pride to their area, not necessarily always for Chile. They sell fresh clams on the street here, 20 clams for a dollar, but otherwise the town is expensive for its size. There are a lot of tourist here, and the cold windy streets cater to our needs. I leave here tonight, making a probably slow journey north to Buenos Aries. Until then, Choa!
In Patagonia, its wind. There have been reports of people actually being blown off the side of a the trail to fall to their deaths. Specifically, from our information session, the leader spoke of a time when someone was breaking down their tent, a big gust of wind came, he or she held on, and it took them 20 feet off the ground. It is serious stuff, and you need to prepare accordingly. Indeed, the day we checked into Torres de Plaines national park, the forecast called for 85 km/hr winds that day, and 75 the next. I don´t know how many miles an hour that is, but I can tell you from experience, it is a lot!
A truly action packed hike, there were highlights on everyday of the trip. The first big one was glacier grey, situated just above lake grey, we spent the day fighting the wind for a campsite shouldering the glacier. Just a 5 hour hike ahead, this would be our easiest day, and fittingly so since your packs are the heaviest at the beginning. On the way, we were gifted with the sights of many icebergs floating along in the grey lake, and when we finally got our close up encounter with glacier grey...well it was breathtaking. First of all, at the shear size of this thing, but later at its intricate beauty. It looked like a chef had chopped and diced up some onions, then froze them together, adding blue food coloring, and then sprinkling some pepper on top of it all. Some of the slices had intense blue color, it was really cool. And you could almost feel the pressure and impact this giant piece of ice was having on the area. Can you imagine the amount of pressure that this thing had?? several miles long (as far as I could see) and maybe 50 ft high at its base (again where I could see)....that has to be thousands of tons of ice moving down the mountainside! Oh, and did I mention the effect on the weather?? Because, yes, it has one. This is part of the 3rd largest ice shelf in the world, and it impacts the climate all over the world...making it colder of course, so, can you imagine sleeping next to it?? It was a cold night.
But, we were happy to be seeing it, and ate up every minute of the 15 hours of sunlight this place offers. Once we managed to crawl out of our sleeping bags the next day, we realized we had slept in, and were now on the clock to make it to our next campsite. The whole trek was in the shape of a W and waking on the first morning we were at the top of the first point of the W, the goal was to make it to the next top point for camp that night, then again at the final top for the last. Day two was spent hiking up the ¨French Vally¨which was equally amazing. It offered high mountain peaks, literally surrounding you. Meanwhile, you walk through this lush valley occupied by dense forest one minute, then a rock scape remaining from a landslide the next. It was constantly changing. In fact, we saw at least 5 giant pieces of glacier break off from the mountains above to come crashing down the mountainside...usually landing on other glaciers. Again, I couldn't stop thinking about how cool this place is, and how many of my friends and family would love this spot as well.
But Allan was struggling. He has made all of the aforementioned treks with me, and always dealt with some pain in his knees, which he knows are bad. But this time it was getting the best of him. Each step was getting more painful, and he knew that for everyone he went up, he would have to get down the next day...the real tough part on the knees. The next day, after a trying 7 hour hike, and getting down the valley we had previously conquered...he was ready to call it a day. I don´t blame him, especially since the park offers ´refugios´along the way where they are serving people nice dinners with wine and coffee and cake...and all inside a heated cabin. These were tough to walk by on the trail and pass up. But, I always felt more hard core camping and cooking outside on my own...that, I feel, is a more realistic outdoors experience. But, to each their own.
He went in, and I went up. The last day, was easily the longest. I spent a solid 10 hours of hiking that day, but I had to make it to a certain point. Specifically, the Torres Campsite. The Torres, (or towers in English) were what everyone visited the park for. They are 3 amazingly unusual tall skinny mountain peaks sticking out of this already unique mountain range- giving it its namesake Torres de Plaines, or Towers of the Plains. You see, Patagonia is normally a flat place, this park is really the exception more than the rule. Usually it is long plains filled with grasses, shrubs...and wind! What makes these 3 towers even more special though, is that at sunrise, when the lighting is just right, they light up like the red rocks in southern Utah, or Arizona- you picture this among the snow sitting at their base, and the blue grey lake below that, and you truly have a terrific feast for the eyes.
This was the goal. Now, you can´t do anything about the weather, but- I´m going to be damn sure I will be up there at sunrise- just in case I luck out and see the unforgettable. The idea then, is to get to the closest campsite (Torres Campsite) so that your hiking in the dark early the next morning is minimized. Trying to adhere to this plan is now difficult, I have lost my travel companion, which now means I am carrying the whole tent and all of the food myself. The hardest day of the trip isn't usually when you need to add 5 or 10 pounds to your pack. Determined as I was though, I made it to the camp around 8:30, I had been hiking for 9 and a half hours...and made it in an hour before sunset. I quickly set up my tent and prepared supper...pasta...of course. But I knew I would need to wake up at 5 am to get there in time for the 7 o´clock sunrise. I was so excited I could hardly sleep!
Up and about at 4:45, I was out and hiking, alone, and with only my headlamp to light the way...I was reveling in the adventure of it all. Around each corner I questioned my step, and every trail marker I found was a small triumph. Crossing rivers on makeshift tree-trunk bridges was of specific adventure in the dark. However, after 30 minutes or so of this, when I am really starting to question where the hell I am going...I catch a glimpse of some other headlamps in the distance behind me. A bit disappointed, I immediately set out at a highlighted pace...no one is catching me!! But, a bit later, I see someone getting close...so I wait up, hoping to talk when he or she gets close. It was another American! He was from Montana, and luckily this was his third time up (so he knew where the hell he was going), and his third attempt at seeing a good sunrise...he first two were unlucky. The accent started, and didn't stop for an hour- at least, and after he realized I was going to keep up with him, he slowed his pace just a little. We ended up passing quite a few people together (turns out I was not the first one awake). And later, as we were getting towards the top, I passed him up. I was the first one to the view point, and the sun was just peaking out from the eastern sky. I looked back down the rocky mountain trail, and noticed an army of headlamps coming my way. Oh great, here comes another Machu Pichu I thought, but it wasn't as bad. There were maybe 50 of us up there, and we were rewarded with a great sunrise.
The towers were indeed illuminated with a fiery dark red, amongst a dark dark grey blue sky...it was a wonderful sight, but it didn't last long. Many, including me, were waiting for it to get better, when I looked the other way to take in the beauty of the actual sunrise, I looked back, and the towers were grey. They turned to stone! OK, they were already stone, but for a minute they looked different, and if you weren't looking, or didn't make it up in time, then you are SOL! I did manage a few good pictures though. Especially good, are the ones of me, bundled into my sleeping bag, using my fleece bag as a giant scarf, freezing my ass off waiting for this sunrise! That, in fact, this along with the lone star nighttime hike, were my favorite moments of this trip. Alone, in my bag, fighting off the cold winds, and waiting for the sight of a lifetime.
I came down, and rubbed it in as much as I could to Allan...but he wasn't having it...going on simply wasn't an option for him. I feel bad he missed out, but I took some good photos for him...and you, to see!
Now, I am enjoying the wonderful small town of Puerto Natales. Deep into Patagonia, they feel pride to their area, not necessarily always for Chile. They sell fresh clams on the street here, 20 clams for a dollar, but otherwise the town is expensive for its size. There are a lot of tourist here, and the cold windy streets cater to our needs. I leave here tonight, making a probably slow journey north to Buenos Aries. Until then, Choa!
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